Here come the hot steppers

Mr Hare's 'Hot Steppers' shot on location in Ibiza.

Mr. Hare proudly presents his SS10 'Hot Steppers' Collection throughout London Fashion Week and kicked things off with a stint at Jay Jopling's contemporary, White Cube gallery before taking his place in tomorrows Fashion East installations. I managed to sneak out undetected at work yesterday to pay a quick visit to Mr. Hare at his space inside the gallery. This act of blatant truancy was certainly worth it and it even led to a mention of the Q word on our twitter page (I promise not to use it as a superlative ever again). Plus I got to see an awesome Gormley installation which combined with the collection utterly blew my mind.

Despite salivating over the soft leathers and cut away uppers, we were going to refrain from posting any images until tomorrow but then we saw that the folks at Selectism have posted a Q&A with our favourite shoe fanatic along with a few shots from his latest look book during their curating stint at Wallpaper and the resolve buckled.

The lovely OO0OO posted this image earlier today. It is of little surprise that this pair of reworked Millers has made it on to his Spring2010 wish list already.

The collection demonstrates Mr Hare fighting the urge to just rock slouchy shoes in the summer months. It is inspired by his personal dilemma of what to wear to a central American/Carribean dancehall as a shoeist. Similarly to the 'Purest Form' this collection is named after his heroes but as his debut collection was named after his literary greats here the styles are named after his favourite dancehall generals. Cachao, King Tubby, J.Dilla, Jerry Lee Lewis and even Phil Spector all feature. The below pair of tasselled slips ons are my current favourites but expect this to change plus much more spring summer shoe porn in the coming day or two. As the man himself declared in our countdown to the 23rd series of mini interviews, these are shoes which allow you to move through a room like Andrey Arshavin...Here comes the hot stepper, murderer, I'm the lyrical gangster...
Still love you like that, murderer

Harris Tweed: Hanging by a thread

I don't know about you, but both of us at Style Salvage are a little tired of the fashion week craziness, the relentless pace of it all is headache inducing and we could do with a lie down. Of course we are excited about Wednesday but it can just be a little too much at times. With this in mind, I propose a change of pace. Go and make yourself a cup of tea, why not rustle yourself up a plate of shortbread biscuits whilst you're up, then sit down in your comfiest chair with your laptop and read through our chat with the director of the BBC4's Tweed series.

Image from Monocle

Harris Tweed is woven in a beautiful setting by workers in their own homes. It is the most iconic of all tweeds, woven by hand, and adored for decades the world over. Or it was. The current BB4 series, Tweed looks at the island industry which is now in terminal decline. With the closing of its largest mill, it’s crunch time for the business. The story of the British Isles most notable native cloth is both wonderful and frustrating. I've enjoyed watching the series immensely and are looking forward to the final episode which screens tomorrow (Tuesday 22nd September at 21:00) and will be available on iplayer soon after to digest at your viewing pleasure.

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, Harris Tweed evokes an a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings and this series certainly captures this. The reason being is that the tweed is still woven by pedal-powered looms in the homes of Scottish sheep herders on the outermost fringe of the British Isles, just as it has been since 1846. 2010 is make or break time for Harris Tweed. It is one of the most iconic fabrics in the world. yet, as the series documents, the outlook for the fabric is similar to the weather forecast for the Outer Hebrides, not all that sunny and bright. For those of you who refuse to watch the picture box or those living outside of the UK, you might have seen that, in their latest issue, Monocle wrote a great piece outlining the future of the famous tweed and the livelihood of its weavers. So you should all be familiar with the story, if not...read this and then watch the series. Here, we talk to director, Ian Denver to learn more about the series and his love affair with the fabric.

The idylic, remote setting where the fabric is made. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: What inspired/drove the series? Did you have an existing relationship or experience with the Harris Tweed industry?
Ian Denver: The series came after we briefly covered the story in a previous series about life and times on Savile Row (2007) We were so fascinated, that when we discussed which small world we next want to attempt to penetrate next, there was no question. I have always loved and worn tweed - when the rest of my generation were getting in to pins and bondage pants, I was in Oxfam buying old Harris. I also moved to the Yorkshire Dales to live the life. Incidentally, we interviewed Vivienne Westwood for the series and she said that in the Punk Era, Malcolm Maclaren was obsessed with tweed and tartan. We also discussed my belief that Harris Tweed, made by workers who own the means of production and produce in defiance of the global manufacturing trend, is a truly subversive cloth.

SS: Harris Tweed evokes an awful lot of romantically nostalgic feelings. Did you fall in love with the fabric and the people who make it?
Ian Denver: I did. As I said above I already loved the fabric, but the people, so un-polished and other worldly, made the whole thing a joy for me. I practically lived up there for a year.

SS: Savile Row tailor Patrick Grant who features in both episode one and the final one believes strongly in the fabric . How did you meet him and what role did he play in the making of the documentary?
Ian Denver: I had met Patrick making the Savile Row series and he was involved from the off. He studied Textile Technology before opening his business and is descended from people in the Scottish cloth trade, so he knows what he’s talking about. I never gave up my contacts with the Row and now spend my life working to be able to buy bespoke clothing. PG believes I am the only person who would even consider some of his heavier and more functional clothing. His new E.Tautz cavalry overalls being a case in point. He tried to wear them on a bicycle and couldn’t pedal. Anyway, he was committed to the idea of a series in which he and I and the islanders tried to save Harris Tweed. Clearly this was a rather grand ambition, but I hope we’ve helped. Hearts are most certainly in the right place.

There are around eight hundred fabrics and seven hundred colour variations. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: There are moments in the first two episodes where I wanted to throw my remote control at the television (mainly at Brian Haggas). The fabric certainly provokes strong feeling. Was the series difficult to film at times?
Ian Denver: The series was very hard because we had a minuscule budget and the Hebrides are notoriously expensive to get to, because so few people do. The personalities made it a joy however. I don’t mean they were all nice people, but the epic, almost Greek nature of the narrative and the beauty of the stage made it a gift. Brian Haggas you simply couldn’t make up. In episode three he commissions a Harris tweed feature film. What a Godsend. Interestingly I believe he starts as a villain, at least in the eyes of the islanders, but I believe he is actually a hero. Before him there had been no investment for decades. He may have made mistakes, but he spent more than anyone else, employed most of the weavers, albeit briefly, and created such a groundswell of opposition the industry was reborn. He says he’ll be back – and I believe he’ll actually win through in the end, with a wider variety of tweed patterns...

SS: Your series has already taken us on quite a journey. The first two episodes follow the drama in the Outer Hebrides, where we see short lived proclamations of a new savior in the form of a Yorkshire textile baron soon followed by lay-offs at Christmas. What can we expect from the final episode?
Ian Denver: The final episode sees the big Shawbost and tiny Carloway mills still going at it. Shawbost’s pet designer Deryck Walker goes to Japan in search of inspiration and creates some remarkable catwalk garments – and Alan Bain begins what might be civil war by experimenting with lighter tweed. Patrick Grant is flown in to address the weavers, and has some hard things to say about the future of the cloth. And then there’s Haggas, who becomes a photographic expert...

The magical thread. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: Having watched the series it seems clear that many people involved in the Harris Tweed industry have differing opinions on what is the best path to a successful future for the fabric. 2010 is probably make or break time for Harris Tweed, which path would you like to see it go down?
Ian Denver: I’d like to see hook-ups with major high street names and Harris Tweed produced in eye-popping designs for a new generation. I’d also like to see some of the long-lost tweed designs, particularly from the fifties and seventies, re-issued. I just want it to be huge, not least because all those in the industry who now say they hate me will have to say thanks...

SS: The series certainly instills a strong desire in me to go out and buy a Harris Tweed jacket. What would you like people to take away from it?
Ian Denver: I’d like them to infest the flights that leave Edinburgh and Glasgow and go and see the place. It is simply beautiful – on Harris in the summer, turquoise waves lap on empty white beaches. Go in autumn or spring and you’ll never want to leave, and being there forces you to want some of it on your back. I’ve never come across another fabric you just lust after. I want to eat it. Plus it’s British. This is our heritage, our gift. It’s got a great green future moments away, and the outside world is cottoning on. Shawbost mill, Harris Tweed Hebrides, has just become Textile Brand of the Year.

The certified trade mark of Harris Tweed. Still by Guy Hills
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This series has certainly ignited a passion within. If you are interested in keeping arts and crafts, artisan businesses, communities and positive traditions alive, the Harris Tweed cause is certainly one to support. If you are interested in long lasting clothing that is good for the environment, the very antithesis of the throw-away culture that has controlled the clothing market, then you should consider this fabric.

Countdown to the 23rd: Wintle and E. Tautz

We are almost within touching distance of Menswear day and Steve has shaken off his little bug and is chomping at the bit to take his seat (or will more than likely just stand) at the showcase. As we are only a matter of mere days away, we best get a move on with our countdown! Here, we catch up with returning designer, Jsen Wintle and Patrick Grant of E. Tautz...

Jsen Wintle. Photograph by Jason Lloyd Evans

Wintle, launched in 2005 and has established a reputation for authentic luxury and fine tailoring. It is great to have Jsen back showing at London Fashion Week. Wintle presented sharply tailored, smart, menswear collection with a vintage twist in Paris back in June but we can't wait to see it up close on Wednesday. With his passion for hand tailoring, rich fabrics and immaculate detail we are in for a treat.

SS: What were your inspirations for the collection?
Jsen Wintle: I drew inspiration from the photographic works of Edward Burtynsky and his recurring themes of nature transformed through industry. We translated these references into engineered digital prints of the run offs of nickel mines and muddy degrade digital prints from the dust filled landscapes of the three gorges dam. The stark colour palate and the architecture of these manufactured landscapes was a real inspiration. The softness of nature transformed through industry.

SS: What are you most looking forward to showing on the 23rd September?
Jsen Wintle: The collection takes a bit of a lighter note this season, I wanted to show a softer hand to the tailoring which is largely unstructured, collapsible yet still substantial. More day to night. Less precious but still super luxurious. The leather wear, in heavily brushed and tumbled nubuck, is particularly good too I think!

SS: Have you got any anecdotes of making the collection that you can share?
Jsen Wintle: We spent a really long time on the engineered prints and degrade. It was a bit of nightmare actually but great fun. I’m really pleased with them. We achieved the result of making them look really simple from a distance though they are far from.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Jsen Wintle: A jacket and trousers that are the right length and fit for their body and personality.

SS: Aside from your own, which collections are you looking forward to seeing?
Jsen Wintle: Sadly we will be so busy on our own show and everything else going on that we won't get to see anyone else.

E. Tautz's very own Patrick Grant

We excitedly covered the resurrection of E. Tautz back in February as the historic sporting and military outfitters took its place in the extended MAN afternoon. Since its relaunch E. Tautz has deservedly gone from strength-to-strength (as mentioned in previous posts) and SS10 sees the launch of its second ready to wear collection. Steve was fortunate enough to meet the lovely Patrick Grant to discuss the last few months and the inspirations behind the Spring/Summer offering for Dazed Digital. For Menswear Day the sporting and military outfitters will unveil an animated film by Quentin Jones.

SS: What were your inspirations for the collection?
Patrick Grant: We took our inspiration from a set of photographs of the Duke of Windsor on holiday on the island of Majorca in the 1930’s. Just the most chic summer wardrobe imaginable.

SS:What are you most looking forward to showing on the 23rd September?
Patrick Grant: We showed the collection in June so we commissioned a young British Artist called Quentin Jones to make us a short animated film for London.

SS: Have you got any anecdotes of making the collection that you can share?
Patrick Grant: Once again our tour of Britain unearthed some real gems. Amazing materials and fantastic little workshops. We’ve drunk a lot of tea and sat on a lot of (mostly rather tardy) trains in bringing this collection together.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Patrick Grant: Beards, with good moustaches. I was in New York last week and saw a chap with a tash that must have been a foot wide. Terrific.

SS: Aside from your own, which collections are you looking forward to seeing?
Patrick Grant: Christopher Kane will be my highlight, not just because we’ve worked with him again, but I always enjoy Richard Nicoll, Luella, Jonathan Saunders, House of Holland and Roksanda. On the boys side b Store and Topman are always very cool.

A dose of Fantastic Man

London Fashion Week has landed but it looks like I have to catch a later flight. You might think I would be strutting my Mr. Hare's across town (did you see the mention in The Times? Wow!) but alas I am cooped up in the flat feeling more than a little sorry for myself. I am suffering from a combination of ick and eurgh so I have had to sit the weekend activty out. Thankfully I have a copy of Issue Ten of Fantastic Man within easy reach. The pages within are proving to be far better for me than the cocktail of tablets and Lemsip that I've consumed today.

Issue Ten of Fantastic Man and the accompanying supplement without labels.

The tenth issue of my favourite gentleman's style journal for autumn winter 2009 features Ewan McGregor in a Prada uniform as he is about to embark on a new wave of films. As always the issue is packed full of features and articles which contain the perfect balance of humour, wit, interest and the downright unusual. As for the cover star, I've always had a soft spot for the actor, it could either be put down to his soft Scottish accent or some of the roles he has played including Obi-Wan, Curt Wild and Renton but it is nice to see him styled by Olivier Rizzo in Prada's finest and a Comme des Garcons Plus kilt.

Ewan McGregor wearing a mohair sweater with a leather front and a cotton t shirt, both by Prada. Photographed by Alasdair Mclellan in London. Styled by Olivier Rizzo.

As always, the first chapter of the magazine which features the odds and sods is my favourite segment of the magazine. We find out the word of the season is Shebang which really is a wonderful world and I urge you to use it in a sentence today. There is an apple and pears themed word puzzle which kept me busy for all of fifteen minutes and interview with Gilbert and George on their predictions for 2019, we will all be wearing flesh colours apparently. The highlight is when Gert Jonkers steps up for the fashion test and experiments by wearing Calvin Klein for an entire month and fares pretty darn well.

We are offered glimpse inside the kaleidoscopic world of the European Editor of US Vogue, Hamish Bowles', wardrobe. What a dazzling glimpse. To say the man likes to have fun with colour and pattern is a gross understatement. Later in the issue Charlie Porter analyses men in colour in the most thought provoking pieces of writing I've read on men's style since...well, in fact ever. There will be much more on this in a later post (some time this week) and there will even be a challenge with a potential prize waiting awarded to the winner, but back to the issue at hand...

The fashion section is a non stop orgy of suits as the editorials capture suits for the city, executive suits, man suits and even light suits. The above looks are my two of my favourites from the strong spread as Daniel Riera and Jodei Barnes take us on a trip to the heart of the metropolis with two CEOs dressed up in Duckie Brown, Brooks Brothers, Dries Van Noten and Ralph Lauren. Oh to be a man of power!

Elsewhere in the issue we are treated with some of the finest examples of blazers on the market and shown that the modern blazer can stand on its own, set apart from the average suit jacket with a sense of pride and indivuality that is all its own. For me, a double breasted blazer like the Thom Browne one (below left) is top of my 'want/need' list.

Alongside these delights I was surprised to find issue zero of Fantastic Man's new sister title, the aptly (and yet slightly lamely) named The Gentlewoman. The new title will be released as a standalone for Spring Summer season in 2010 and is something Susie has been wishing and wanting for ages. Here we are shown a slice of the future as the pages preview what they bill as 'a new magazine for a new decade'. As for us gentleman, well..a dose of Fantastic Man certainly keeps the doctor away...I guess you could it is the whole shebang.

Arthur Joins the Style Scout Team Fri 16:54 GMT

Patrik Ervell's decay in the Spring time

Patrick Ervell's decay in the Spring time. Presentation image from Dazed Digital.

This past week or so we have been excitedly counting down to London Fashion Week and it might seem that our eyes are purely focused on home turf but that is not the case. Although EJ recently declared on twitter "Bored of fashion, bored of this week, bored of fashion weeks" we have kept a keen eye (albeit a lazy, bored one) on the goings on across the pond. In all honesty there hasn't been too much which has excited either one of us. If I had to sum up the week in a few words in regard to menswear I would use; commercial, safe, wearable...I could go on but you get my point. There were plenty of nice collections (Band Of Outsiders, Rag & Bone, Phillip Lim (mainly for the hair), Duckie Brown) but very little within them which provided anything new or left any impression.

For me, the whole point of a fashion week is to provoke a reaction and it should be met by more than a 'meh' and a shrug of the shoulders. Thom Browne chose to show in his new Tribeca store and it certainly showcased a number of more wearable looks (printed cardigans, well-cut shorts, fitted trimmed blazers,) than we are used to seeing from him but thankfully he injected some fantasy in to the lineup, evening suit of oversize paillettes anyone? However, the one show which left any kind of memorable impression is Patrik Ervell's, I even dreamed about wearing one of Ervell's rusty dress shirts to the Carolyn Massey show last night. We expect a slim-fitting suit aesthetic and a club-collar shirt from Ervell but people often overlook his fascination with experimentation and fabric development.

Montage images sourced from Dazed Digital

“I came upon the idea by trying to think of new American motifs. Cotton stained by rust or by copper patina felt American to me and it feels like a good time to use a kind of decay as a central motif for the collection. I wanted to try something completely new, something I’d never seen before. It took a fair amount of experimentation and trial and error to figure out the best way of getting the metal to oxidize properly onto the fabric.”

The Moment revealed that Ervell’s method of staining cloth with iron and copper oxide was hugely labour intensive but for me it was undoubtedly worth it. The process involved spreading out tiny metal shavings on the fabric, soaking it in a saline solution, then leaving it to sit for a week. A desire to do something new to find a new American motif fueled the collection and it is why I love it and will remember it. Now who wants to give this a go for a nice little DIY project?

Metal shaving used by Ervell, image from The Moment.

Counting down to the 23rd... Martine Rose and Mr Hare

We realise that the blog has become overrun with posts dedicated to London Fashion Week but we offer no excuse, we are purely excited about what is to come! Following on seamlessly from Tuesday's Counting down to the 23rd post, we serve up another two interviews with designers who are part of the Fashion East Menswear Installations collective. The twelve designers picked by Fashion East feature some of the most exciting design talent in the capital and Martine Rose and Mr Hare are two of our favourites.

Martine Rose portrait by Ben Beonliel

For her third season Martin Rose presented a collection of men's shirts for Aw09 entitled 'Pieces' inside the Fashion East MAN house. Her designs played with sportswear in a more formal piece of a man's wardrobe and to great effect. Next Wednesday, Martine Rose will take her place amongst the eleven other designers showcasing their designs in the East Wing and Vaults of Somerset House.

SS: What were your inspirations for the collection?

Martine Rose: Parachutes, zips, colour and function.

SS: What are you most looking forward to showing on the 23rd September?

Martine Rose: Challenging the notion that shirts have to be just in cotton!

SS: Have you got any anecdotes of making the collection that you can share?

Martine Rose: ...erm god no, definitely not an authority on that, different things jump out every season to bite me on the bum

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?

Martine Rose: SHIRTS!

SS: Aside from your own, which collections are you looking forward to seeing?

Martine Rose: Ooh I will be like a kid in a candy store there are so many this season, Blaak, Louise Gray, Danielle Scutt... the list is endless!!

Mr Hare, portrait by Ben Beonliel

Mr Hare should need no introduction. His debut collection blew us away and now Steve refuses to ever take off his Stingray Orwell's. We have seen a sneaky preview of his SS10 collection and we predict that a few of you will be shocked (in a good way) by the second helping. We can't wait to catch a whiff of new shoes in the air again next week...

SS: What were your inspirations for the collection?
Mr. Hare: How to fight the urge to just rock slouchy shoes in the summer months. Plus that age old dilemma of what to wear to a central American/Carribean dancehall as a shoeist. Oh and how to move through a room like Andrey Arshavin.

SS: What are you most looking forward to showing on the 23rd September?
Mr. Hare: Here's the clue. You can burn my house. Steal my car. Drain my liquor from an old fruit jar. Do anything that you wanna do, but uh uh honey lay off of them shoes and don't you step on my...

SS: Have you got any anecdotes of making the collection that you can share?

Mr. Hare: There are two styles in the collection that had the guys in the factory in stitches from the moment they saw the pictures. Everytime we had a meeting they would ask me if I still wanted them to make them. After three meetings plus the initial presentation they finally made them. I think they are ill. I think they just questioned their Italian male sensibilities a little.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Mr. Hare: I have to say shoes, but it is true.

SS: Aside from your own, which collections are you looking forward to seeing?

Mr. Hare: Seeing everybody's take on the immediate future is the big buzz for me. London's creative generation putting forward their expressive viewpoint. I walk in blind and walk away inspired by all of them.

Fashion156's LFW Preview Issue

You might have noticed that I am more than a little excited by the fast approaching Menswear Day at LFW. As I've been far from wowed by the goings on at New York (of course there are elements that I enjoyed, the hair and overall styling of Phillip Lim, the bow shorts in Duckie Brown and Patrick Ervell's fabric experimentation to name just three things but I've generally found the shows to be lacking) I am somewhat impatiently tapping my fingers and clock watching, willing the days onward so I can take my place at Somerset House to enjoy the showcase. Guy and his team at Fashion156 have increased my heartbeat and turned my hands a little clammy with the unveiling of their Preview Issue. You will notice that the site is even more aesthetically pleasing than usual and the features have been tweaked, improved and added to which all combine to push it at the forefront of online fashion magazines. The latest editorial features looks by some on my favourite London based designers including Carolyn Massey, Katie Eary, Omar Kashoura, and Satyenkumar whilst reintroducing me to names I've heard but are not really familiar with, for example Marko Mitanovski and Studio 805. I caught up with Guy earlier this evening to discuss the latest shoot, his thoughts on the 23rd and what the new site has in store for us.

Hat and top from Katie Eary's S/S 2010 collection.

On the Menswear day...
"I have heard the comments that the day has limited impact because most buyers have already spent their budgets by this point in the season. This may be true but for me it is more about showcasing amazing creativity. Creativity that isn't restrained by commercial requirements. That should come later, once a designer has established their name. I feel that the day should continue to nurture and support the new talent and give these designers a platform. If there are great designs on show, customers will see it online and soon start demanding these pieces.

Jacket, shorts and top from Omar Kashoura's S/S 2010 collection.

On what he is most looking forward to seeing on the 23rd...
"To be honest, all of it. I really love styling menswear and the shows are just so inspiring and are featuring so many designers that I greatly admire for pushing the boundaries. I've had a sneak preview of Katy Eary's collection and it is amazing."

Jacket, trousers and shirt from Satyenkumar's S/S 2010 collection.

On his favourite looks...
"Katy Eary was worth the wait. Her looks turned up five minutes before we were being thrown out of the location so we had capture the shots and film them in less than two minutes. A bit too close for comfort."

Shorts, jacket, top and shoes from Topman Design's S/S 2010 collection.

On any surprises...
"To be honest nothing really surprised me because menswear evolves at a slower pace. Looking at it now though it is great how KOMAKINO is really starting to get recognition (or should that be ripped off) for all their segmentation and cut-outs. I feel this is going to be a massive trend next summer. See our HYPE page."

Jacket, shirt and shorts from B Store's S/S 2010 collection.

On the designers to look out for in the next twelve months or so.

"We featured some new names in this shoot. Marko Mitanovski produced strong, sculptural pieces; Studio 805 is playing with proportions in an interesting way. Most of your readers will know him, but I just feel Craig Lawrence is going to take-off in the next few months. (See our film!)"

Trousers and jacket from Carolyn Massey's S/S 2010 collection.

On the new site and what to look forward to...
"It has just been confirmed that we are showcasing again this season at LFW! I am so happy about this, as it is so great for getting our name out there. The new site is still being fine tuned but it is getting a great reaction. There will be more films for sure, as seeing our shoots come to life is something I am just really excited about. In a few weeks our brand new MEMBERS zone launches and it will act as a showcase for designers, illustrators, photographers, writers and just people who want to create a page with great images. We are launching some great competitions too - there is lots going on."

Countdown to the 23rd: Jaiden rVa James and H by Harris

Fashion East's menswear installations, curated by the lovely Lulu Kennedy, will take place in the East Wing and Vaults at Somerset House and we can't wait to see how the installations transform and takeover the space. The twelve designers showcasing their designs include Blaak, Casely-Hayford, Eastpak by Christopher Shannon, H by Harris, Husam el Odeh, Jaiden rVa James, Jordan Askill, Louise Gray, Martine Rose, Mr Hare, New Power Studio and Sibling. Over the course of the week we will speak to a number designers taking part, first up Jaiden rVa James and H by Harris.

The talented design duo Jaiden rVa James

These are exciting times right now for menswear in London and Jaiden rVa James are certainly two of the reasons why. As part of the MAN house installation last season the talented design duo took a dark turn towards the character of Orphelia and conjured up many talking points with a mix of floral skirts, PVC bondage trousers and straight jackets. We can't wait to see what they serve up this season...

SS: What were your inspirations for the collection?
Jaiden rVa James: Life & Youth

SS: What are you most looking forward to showing on the 23rd September?
Jaiden rVa James: Being a part of the second menswear day as we was a part of the 1st and hope to remain a part of it for a while to come , LFW's 25th celebrations and LFW overall. Also super excited to see Katie Eary at MAN catwalk if we have the time, also to see how James Long does and what he comes up with in his solo show and New-Gen men which is investing in the array of talent that London has produced. Hopefully past MAN designers like Cassette Playa & Carola Euler will be able to come back and make London a power house of talent for both sexes.

SS: Have you got any anecdotes of making the collection that you can share?
Jaiden rVa James: As always Fashion before food

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Jaiden rVa James: Confidence its not a piece of clothing but if they had this certain quality then the daring work of London's menswear designers could be worn with ease.

SS: Aside from your own, which collections are you looking forward to seeing?
Jaiden rVa James: James Long, Burberry, MAN show, Katie Eary, Luella, Jeremy Scott, Louise Goldin... I guess we should stop there before we say the whole list! LFW is one of the highlights of our year, so I guess above all we are looking forward to it in general.

The debut H by Harris collection

After completing a degree in Interior Architecture and Design, Harris Elliott established himself as a leading stylist in fashion and music. Thankfully for us, Harris shifted his immediate attention from the likes of Mark Ronson and turned to luggage design and the neglected world of accessories. The debut H by Harris collection comprises of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Styles include rucksacks, totes, weekend bags, satchels and laptop skins and of course the H jacket which Steve has been drooling over for some time.

SS: What were your inspirations for the collection?
Harris Elliott: Camouflage and cocoons, to be protected and invisible at the same time. I was nspired to design a collection that embodies luxury utility fatigues.

SS: What are you most looking forward to showing on the 23rd September?
Harris Elliott: For me it has to be the space, as it's great to be able to create your own environment for your collection to be viewed in. Entitled 'Cell block H', it links to the Browns men’s window installation we are doing for fashion week. The two spaces forming a 3-dimensional extension of the collection. Also the 'H= jacket', the show piece which will be the centre of both installations.

SS: Have you got any anecdotes of making the collection that you can share?
Harris Elliott: It has got to be the happy mistakes. I designed a bag purely to carry samples in, then was constantly asked by people to sell it as a collection piece. Another sample was made by my factory contrary to my instructions, there was no time to make another sample but it turned out to be a really popular piece. Lesson learned, believe in the spaces in between the lines....

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Harris Elliott: It's got to be a hat, a good hat always finishes off an outfit. Guys are getting better over here but not a patch on Japanese men.

SS: Aside from your own, which collections are you looking forward to seeing?
Harris Elliott: I'm looking forward to seeing Casely-Hayford and Blaak. Both those labels design garments that as a creative make you smile, as there are always details and cuts that make you say wow!

The only thing I Kudu

The Kudu Brongue Boot in tan. Its charms are difficult to resist.

I mentioned last week how following months of shopping abstinence the purchase of Mr. Hare's Stingray Orwells had opened up the floodgates of consumerism... well, my shopping binge has continued today. After interviewing Lodger's vary own Nathan Brown my imagination was caught by his description of his September shoe of the month, the Kudu Brogued Boot. When the Clifford Street store released the first images of the boot I fell head over heels, they were the boots I had dreamed of wearing this winter but until then did not know they actually existed. Despite lusting over them, I looked at my battered debit card and decided against it but the moment I walked by the shop window and met their flirtatious gaze my resolve completely dissipated and I just had to have them.

The September 2009 boot is made from an antique leather. As the designer mentioned on Lodger's blog, the wonderfully unique leather in this boot was made in a tannery that closed down more than 20 years ago and was found whilst foraging in the back of a shed in Northampton. The operations of this Eastern European tannery were picked up by another tannery that also ceased operations around in the last 10 years. The leather was popular in English shoe making in the 1960's and 1970's, but hasn't been used in a very long time.

A closer look.

Kudu provides a surprisingly light leather that is also remarkably strong and durable. Each hide is unique as it is characterised by the multitude of scratches and scars which reflect the Kudu’s life in the bush. The boot is an eight eyelet brogued style, and has a skeleton lining of the same Kudu leather as the upper, and a full lining in a plush purple velvet from Scabal. It's offered in two colours, a warm grey version that looks like an old work boot, and a distinctive tan version.. After a great deal of umm-ing and ahh-ing I plumped for the grey version simply because it will look like an antique pair of work boots from the very first wear and should just get better and better with age.

I just can't wait to have these in my footwear arsenal...

Lodger can only make around twenty five pairs because there is only that much leather available. There is only one parcel of this leather remaining, and the two tanneries that know how to produce it have ceased operation, this really is a Shoe of the Month that cannot be repeated. Once this leather is gone, it is gone forever and my resolve did not last too long!

The boot sits proudly next to suggested and approved clothing by Albam.