Tweed Runnings

This weekend I joined an army of tweed clad enthusiasts for a cycle through London for the latest instalment of the Tweed Run. For those of you unfamiliar with this undeniably British celebration, the Tweed Run is a metropolitan cycle with more than a dash of style, fun and dress up. Each year, it serves up a leisurely jaunt that explores the capital all in the name of promoting cycling, gentility and the love of all things tweed. This third instalment was a special edition that celebrated the opening of the first Rugby Ralph Lauren store in Europe and took place on Saturday. The extravaganza kicked off from the new Covent Garden store before hundreds of tweed cloaked cyclists embarked on a twelve mile spin through London's streets. The route saw us explore some of the city's finest landmarks, and included a short stop off for that quintessentially British treat, a tea stop. Throughout our route, traffic and passers by alike grounded to a halt to wave us on and were greeted with a chorus of Tally ho, good morning, thankyou's and much cap doffing. It was a surreal experience all round but bloody good fun. My body might still be aching, moaning and groaning but it was well worth it.

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, tweed is all of its glorious forms often evokes a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings. So, it should come as little surprise that some of the outfits on show had a dash of retro about them. However, that was not the whole story as so many put their own spin on tweed. What truly excites me about this cloth is how its hues are redolent of the landscape of these Isles. Each wonderfully individual piece echoes the sea, the grass and the rugged life of where it was spun. From Berwick to the Outer Hebrides of Scotland to Ireland and beyond, this special cloth is woven throughout the British Isles. Thankfully, the outfits on show were a true celebration of this truly special, yet sadly all to often neglected cloth. I'm tempted to describe the Tweed Run as Pitti Uomo on two wheels because there is undoubtedly a peacock element to proceedings as people preen and strut in Prince of Wales check, herringbone and houndstooth with consummate ease and grace.

When I was not navigating the streets of London on my borrowed Pashley, I was taking photos of the sartorial spread on offer. Before we set off on the bum numbing journey, I took a number of portrait shots that will shortly appear on Rugby's blog but as I was captivated by the sights on show, I ended up shooting an SD card full of shots for my own personal use. Below is just a small selection of the details that caught my eye...a festival of tweed.

Had to end this roundup with a close up of the Mallory jacket from Nigel Cabourn.

Ultimately, the Tweed Run is a bit of fun. It reminds us to that dressing each morning should not be a chore or a bore. We might not take it to this extreme everyday but we should all have a little fun each morning while putting in a little extra thought in to each outfit. It’s surprisingly fun to spend a little bit of time in the morning putting your clothes on.

Details... Fabric mix

A closer look at one of my recent purchases. Henrik Vibskov reimagines a single breasted cotton blazer with the addition of high shine quilted fabric detailing and ribbed cuffs.

Details... Ready for a downpour

The soon to be style stalked Harris Elliot was caught layering jackets and textures for the unpredictable season. With the addition of the Christopher Raeburn Parallel Parka, Elliot is ready for everything a great British Autumn can throw at him.

Gee Whiz

During my time in Tokyo this Spring, I enthusiastically pinballed my away across the sprawling city and discovered a myriad of concept spaces both large and small. One of the real highlights was Yuichi Yoshii's The Contemporary Fix. The two floored space takes a gallery approach, installing limited-time exhibitions that spotlight individual brands. The ground level is an inviting cafe and bar that rewards and rejuvenates customers with a welcome respite from consumerism whilst the second is dedicated to offering a selection of the finest Japanese labels. During my visit I was afforded the opportunity to examine a vast offering from Phenomenon, Visvim, Bedwin and The Heartbreakers, Facetasm and SASQUATCHfabrix to name but a few. However, atleast one label slipped under my radar. Thankfully, Susie was recently dispatched to cover Japan Fashion Week and on the very last day she was wowed by the Yoshii curated series of shows, Versus Tokyo. It was here that she was properly introduced to Whiz Limited.

Hiroaki Shitano launched his label in AW 2000. First as simply “Whiz”, then opting to add “Limited” three years later. His line, originally consisting of handmade printed tees for his closest friends, slowly grew in popularity and encouraged him to expanding his 'individual clothing' concept. Inspired by his native surroundings, Shitano is ever evolving his own Tokyo streetstyle outlook. Whilst being impressed with Whiz Limited's colourful parade for SS12, Susie was inspired to revisit The Contemporary Fix to treat me to a little present from the label's AW11 offering. The collection showcases a heady cocktail of prints and patterns, ranging from plaid to Native American tribal designs, to help breathe new life in to familiar staples. 

AW11 look book shots courtesy of Whiz Limited

Even confronted with the well stocked rails of The Contemporary Fix, Susie still managed to keep a clear head and plumped for the item (having had a chance to look at the entire collection) I would have snapped up for myself. A breton reimagined with the simple addition of a tribal knit trim.  

For me, the real beauty of menswear is in the details. After all, it is the small details which are so often overlooked and neglected which can transform any mediocre outfit in to something special. I've said this many times and will ever tire of saying it opting instead to celebrate the designers and individuals who take as much pleasure in celebrating and exploring them as I do. With Whiz Limited, Shitano is one such designer.

Details... Autumn layers

Thus far, Autumn has delivered unpredictable days. Warm sunshine is followed by a chill and the odd downpour. The simple way to relieve sartorial frustration is layers. Here, J. Lindeberg's very own Sam Wilson layers tweed over wool and a crisp white cotton shirt.

Details... Mr Hare's Idolescence

There's no better ambassador for Mr Hare's shoes than the man himself. Here, he teams up his Hannibal XI Black's from his Idolescent collection with a pair of well but perfectly worn Levi's.

Details... the polka dot effect

I'm an absolute sucker for polka dots. They never fail to draw me in but I particularly love this William Richard Green look.

Details... Flag waving

Here's Daniel Jenkins wearing his heart on his sleeve, chest and back in a celebratory outfit of London designers for Menwsear Day. Polka dot shirt by Martine Rose, tuxedo trousers by Omar Kashoura and zip detailing jacket by Lou Dalton.

Details... Braided horse hair straps

Tommy Ton and that Patrik Ervell backpack from SS11. Butter soft deerskin leather and braided horse hair straps ageing beautifully.

Details: Carrying show invites in style

Whilst my LFW show invitations were stuffed in an inadequately sized envelope, Dal Chodha opted for a quilted haven. The H by Harris Q1 Skin Diamond in blue served him well during Menswear Day. 

Details: Renewed vintage

Andrew Bunney wraps himself up in a vintage Vivienne Westwood scarf to add a splash of colour to his Menswear Day outfit.

Details... Classic with a twist

A closer look at Matthew Miller's take on the classic duffle coat as modelled by David Hopwood. The use of carabiners as fastenings is inspired. One of the jackets of the AW11 season and I'm kicking myself for not ordering one for myself.

Details...details, details

Shaka Maidoh was my vote for Britain's Best Dressed Real Man. Each outfit is packed full of details yet the ensemble on first appearance seems so effortless. Here's just a snapshot of him on the night he picked up his runner up prize.

Details... Embracing the early arrival of Autumn

A finalist in Esquire and My Wardrobe's Britain's Best Dressed Real Man and Doherty Evans Stott's very own Matthew Evans sporting his own well tailored two piece.

When passions collide

There are few occassions where my two passions, Arsenal and menswear, collide. Despite being well designed and showcasing the very latest in fabric design, football shirts should not be considered as anything more than football shirts. In fact, I've often revelled in keeping them seperate and only those of you who follow my personal twitter ramblings will realise just how obsessed I am by the red and white half of North London. However, this year marks the one hundred and twenty fifth anniversary of Arsenal and to honour this landmark, their kit sponsor Nike reimagined one of their own most iconic pieces, the NSW Destroyer jacket. In a combination of tradition and modern motifs, the sportswear giant created an ideal jacket for the terraces. Packed full of detailing that celebrate the history of the club it is a truly special anniversary item. Thanks to the generous folk at Nike I have one of the limited editions jacket, which I tried on for size whilst walking the short distance down the road to the relatively new home of Arsenal, the Emirates.

Now that my mind is buzzing with memories of being an Arsenal fan, I'm reminded that there was a time when I hated football. My Dad would try in vain to tempt me to watch George Graham's Arsenal grind out results but I preferred to play with my Teenage Mutant Ninja turtles in my tiny box room. On any given match day I wanted to be far away from the nervous atmosphere of the living room as he would pace up and down the thick brown carpet (it was the 80s afterall) muttering obscenities mixed in with player's names and commentator back talk. As a toddler I just could not understand this religion cloaked in red and white and how it had such control over the mood of the house.

Proudly wearing my first full Arsenal kit alongside my best friend Stephen Love.

However, one day this fog of confusion was lifted. I cannot recall the exact instant but I can remember a particular moment in 1989. The living room was tense after a long tight season, Arsenal were away at Anfield and we were about to snatch the title at the very last minute. Even now I can hear my Dad screaming "Shoot...shoooooot" the moment Michael Thomas picked up the ball from Alan Smith's delicate dink. In an instant, fear, frustration and agony were replaced with relief, elation and sheer delight. The sight and sound of my Dad in the throws of football ecstacy could well have been the moment I too fell in love with the game.

I'm not sure what I'm doing here, I'm either exicted to be wearing the kit or in desperate need of the loo.

However, it was upon my first visit to Highbury that I fully understood the allure of the Gunners. Despite watching Arsenal lose one nil in a terribly dull ninety minutes against Blackburn, I was hooked on the match day ritual. The drive to London, the pre-game drink and meet up, the carnival like march to the stadium, the collective chorus of the fans, the fact that nothing else matters in that hour and a half. In the years that have followed I have been seduced by the sweat and tears that surely follow The Arsenal. From the machine like defence honed by Graham, to Bruce Rioch marking a new dawn with the signing of Bergkamp through to Wenger's entertaining invincibles I've followed it all with beating heart and open mouth. Adams, Wright, Limpar, Pires, Henry, Vieira have all been idolised only to be replaced by a new breed as the next incarnation of greatness lac up their boots and step out on to the hallowed turf. Much to the frustation of friends and family, the game has made and broken many a weekend ever since and will no doubt continue to do so ever more. Come on you reds...

Trying on the limited edition NSW Jacket on for size outside of Arsenal's home, the Emirates. Teamed up the special jacket with a breton top by Le Minor, chinos by Dockers and my well worn Kudu boots from Lodger.

Emblazoned across the chest is a felt and leather ‘A’ applique taken from the old AFC crest.

The right wrist features an embroidered AFC graphic referencing the initialled monogram badge originally only worn for high-profile matches

One of my favourite details. Satin stiched to the the left sleeve are leather appliques of historic Arsenal Football Club crests. The one pictured here is the first one I kissed back when I first fell in love with the club.

How many teams have a latin motto? Arsenal's very own 'Victoria Concordia Crescit’ (Victory grows out of harmony) is worn proudly on the right sleeve

The ghosts of Ted Drake, Herbert Chapman, David Rocastle and so many more are sewn in to the very seams of this jacket. Similarly, the greats of Arsenal surround the stadium. Here I am in front of the 'oh so dreamy' Bobby Pires.

Details... Zipped Shapes

The Very Simon G sporting a waxed cotton shirt with zipped black circle detailing by Martin Rose.