Weekend Reading... A long sit down with LAW

Just one week ago I poured myself a cuppa and excitedly flicked through two printed finds, LAW and The Travel Almanac. As the latter has received a fair bit of attention already, I'd like to return to the former. LAW is a platform to portray the beautiful in the everyday. This limited edition bi-annual magazine revels in revealing what others miss. A self titled 'bomb shelter for creative collaboration between the talented youth of today with grit in their teeth and something to say.' For its editor John Holt, style is everywhere. Far away from a runway or glossy publication, it can be an act or a gesture, an accent or slang. It is simply everywhere, all one has to do is look. To help fund the title, John Holt sold his dream car, a 1974 Ford Escort Mark 1. Fittingly, a classic of British style sacrificed to celebrate the wider everyday. LAW is a title concerned with documenting the over looked and giving people a sense of belonging and recognition that they ordinarily might not receive. The aim is to make fashion accessible by challenging perception that it's an elitist world by showing that it surrounds us all. Throughout its fifty three page, it pauses to shine the spotlight on a patchwork of everyday eye catchers including passionate shop owners, matchmakers, tailors, brand devotees, dilapidated funparks and cursed football kits.

In amongst the grey concrete walls, LAW is a window to the world of of the current and undercurrent. A cross section of people, places and items that others blindly walk past, making it even more important to document. The bi-annual shines the spotlight on facets of Britain and localised symbols that would ordinarily not be known outside of these shores. Lets press our noses to the glasses and see...

John Holt sold his dream car, a 1974 Ford Escort Mark 1, to make his dream magazine. A classic of British style sacrificed to celebrate the wider everyday.

The featured sneaker collection of Rob Prentice. "There's almost a Nike culture in sneaker collecting", he notes with a smile. From ebay finds to splurges, this collection details Prentice pure elation for kicks.

Forgotten dreams of an English Summer featuring Christopher Shannon and Air Max 90s.

Dean Powell's Adidas archive. "When I was a kid everybody had Adidas Santiago football boots and I think the first trainers I had were black and white Adidas Kick." Three stripes, a wealth of knowledge and a fortune of stories.

Shirley Webb's editorial is close to home. Dreamland is a waiting to be restored themepark in my hometown of Margate. 

The famous grey Manchester United away shirt. United's record in this kit was as follows. Lost 4 and Drew 1.  A furious Ferguson demand that his team change out of it at halftime at The Dell. They were 3-0 down at Southampton. 

From Dave Imms series Butchers.

Giles Peacock has kept every pair of boots he has worn since he was seven. Above is a just a taster of the collection.

Beauty in the everyday right through to the back page. LAW's pebble dash print.

Here's hoping that LAW will continue to archive real characters and document a cacophony of historic British traces as they shift, evolve and disappear from our surroundings. I'll leave you with words uttered by Jason Evans...

"I differentiate between fashion and style, I think fashion is an industry and style is an inherent quality and I'm much more interested in style than fashion"

Weekend Reading... LAW and The Travel Almanac

With a jetlagged and exhausted Susie sleeping off her New York travels I was eager to make use of a quiet weekend by immersing myself in the printed word. Having started my weekend with a trip to Goodhood (future blog post in the works) I took advantage of the store's excellent array of difficult to source publications and zines. Somewhat spoilt for choice I turned to Kyle Stewart for his recommendations. I left with the debut issue of LAW and the second issue of the The Travel Almanac.

Now, I had already heard positive murmurings around the latter given the features on musician Will Oldham, artist and former fashion designer Helmut Lang, and actress Juliette Lewis which sit alongside various excursion fodder in a aesthetically pleasing and thought provoking package. However, Brighton based John Holt's LAW is a new discovery. This bi-annual is concerned with documenting the overlooked and giving people a sense of belonging and recognition that perhaps they would not normally receive but in no way shape or form less deserve. Where The Travel Almanac explores the beyond and inspires a sophisticated generation of travellers, LAW portrays the beautiful in everyday and focuses on what's right under our noses. Time to put the kettle on and enter these two worlds...

Magazines in the spotlight... Port

Ever since Port hit the shelves with its debut issue back in March, the self-styled "intelligent magazine for men" has filled a gap in the confused unoriginal market. From that moment on my impatient finger tapping wait for each issue of Fantastic Man has, much to the relief of those around me, reduced massively. With the introduction of this quarterly, I finally crave another title. Whilst so many men's magazines continually look at themselves in the mirror mouthing "Who am I....What am I doing here?" before embarking on a period of reinvention, Port has always had a reassuring confidence and authenticity. With its mouth watering roster of contributors, eye for detail and obvious passion, it is a publication that continuously provokes thought, ignites imagination and surprises.

The obvious (as it adorns the cover) third issue highlight is the extended feature, The Making of The Rum Diary, which includes world exclusive behind the scenes materials and an in depth chat with the film's writer and director Bruce Robinson. It was from this lengthy dialogue that the theme of creative freedom evolved and developed, quite naturally, to become the delicate thread of the issue. From industrial designer Dieter Rams discussing the development of the iconic Vespa, to acclaimed actress Samantha Morton talking to photographer Mischa Richter about capturing one's creative genius on film, the issue reflects on the nature of creativity and how freedom is an essential part of its very existence. The entire issue is something to savour but below are just a few of the features that caught my wanting eye...

"The splendid bitterness of the unpeeled broad beans and the saltiness of the anchovy are a joy"

Fergus Henderson offers a recipe that sees the happy union of anchovy gunge and broad beans.

Can style be manufactured or does it develop in response not to fashion, but to dressing as a way of life?

Colin McDowell asks if there's a place for the modern dandy or if he'll just end up looking comic.

Styled by Alex Petsetakis and shot by Devin Blair, Fight Club packs the essentials that take you from gym to the street.

Styled by David St John-James and shot by Marisu Hansen, Cast from Past presents a selection of products that increase the heartbeat. Leather framed sunglasses by Paul Smith.

Also from Cast from the Past is this perfect pencil with built in sharpener by Graf Von Faber-Castell. Never have I wanted a pencil more.

"I think the appeal of a cardigan is in its temporary comfort: it wraps around you, but you can whip it off in an instant. It's a styling trick: the garments you wear underneath are still exposed if you wear it open, so colours can be blended and incorporated, and it has the advantage of making things look so much more relaxed when its worn that way."

Alison Llyod believe there is nothing like this unassuming piece of knitwear.

Styled by David St John-James and shot by Leila and Dmaien de Blinkk, On the Inside showcases comfortably tailored style.

"By the time I bought my Vespa GS150 in 1953, it was already well known by riders that the engine was displaced to one side and that this caused a slight i,balance in the machine. As a young architect, the solution was simple: rectify that imbalance by asking your girlfriend to ride side saddle behind you. The weight of her legs on the opposite side of the engine did the trick."

Dieter Rams remember how a Vespa and a girlfriend helped him achieve the perfect balance.

The Rum Diary, the highly anticapated movie, has taken over a decade to come to fruition. Bruce Robinson, the film's writer and director, shares exclusive content from behind the scenes and talk at length with Port's editor Dan Crowe. Here's Johnny Depp in the final shot. 

A scene unintentionally set like a painting by Renori.

With the visual aid of Jillian Edelstein's stunning photography, Stephen Smith gets to the heart of what bullfighting means to Spanish culture.

'In every direction, it felt as if I were looking far out into the horizon towards the never-ending extent of the land"

Frederic Lagrange explores Mongolia.

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I could have quite happily shot every single page of the issue but my images and enthused ramblings do not do it justice. If you buy one men's magazine this season, I heartily recommend Port.

Alfred Dunhill Autumn Winter Eleven/Twelve

Alfred Dunhill Autumn Winter Elven/Twelve

For AW11, Dunhill quietly and confidently stepped away from the theatre and bright lights of the runway and instead offered a sleek, luxurious and intimate experience at its real home, Bourdon House. Those of you unfamiliar with Bourdon House, it is the ultimate in masculine luxury and retail lifestyle. Formerly the London residence of the Duke of Westminster, it reflects Alfred’s own legacy as a curator of the very finest, offering not only superlative product but the ultimate in services and experience too. Back in February its opened it doors and room contained a collective of well tailored models which celebrated themes dear to the house including culture, provenance, discovery and elegance. A few months on and with the second installment of its popular and insightful Voices ad campaign in full swing, Dunhill's Autumn Winter Eleven/Twelve publication lovingly returns to these themes and celebrates true craftsman.

From Alex Bilmes piece on Martin Scorsese through a product showcase of truly great British design to a celebration of South pole explorers, the editorial is beguiled by various masters of their fields. As much of the world clamours over modern life, it feels wildly satisfying that such craftsmanship and dedication to the arts continue to whisper to those that are willing to listen. Here, Dunhill points a well crafted microphone in their direction and quietly watches these experts at work. The issue submerses itself in their artisanal expertise and revels in the sheer and real pleasure of excellence. On a wet Sunday afternoon, it was an utter delight to flick through...

Culture dressed up in a shearling collared cavalry twill overcoat in charcoal.

Culture dressed up in a twill three piece suit in Navy.

Discovery dressed up in the silk Arctic parka with beaver fur lining in Navy.

Time should not be a concern when producing the very best of something. 

A Namiki will take up to six months to create.

The only car that causes my heart to flutter, the uber sleek Jaguar e type.

Explorers of the deep South. 

Valeria Borrajo photographed when the temperature was minus forty three degrees Celsius.

 

No item in modern fashion history holds the universal allure, or the capacity for transformation than the tux. 

It is the single magic whose message and power are instantly communicable. 

As I flicked through this publication there were moments that warmed the heart, ignited the mind and left me longing for a life of luxury. As a child, I would linger over the laminated pages of an Argos catalogue and dream. All grown up, my eyes now linger on a 14 Bike Co. frame and a perfect white shirt by Dunhill. Still dreaming. 

Treasured Items... Glenn Kitson

There are few items within menswear that provoke as much debate and obsession as denim commands. Geekery aside, regardless of where you live, what you do or what size you are, chances are if you have a quick rummage through your wardrobe you will encounter a few pairs of jeans in there some where. We all have our favourites and after giving it much thought, Glenn Kitson has chosen his pair of Levi's XX 1967 XXs for his most treasured wardrobe possession.

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Glenn Kitson and the well worn pair of Levi's XX 1967 505s.

"When Steve asked to me to find my most treasured item I spent weeks chewing it over, it was always at the back of my mind. You see, I wanted to look cool in front of my peers, do I pick something really obscure even though I don't wear it that much or do I choose something really exclusive and expensive? I pondered on it...

Eventually, it became obvious. I chose my jeans. Levis XX 1967 505. OK, so they're repros and in the world of crazy denim geeks, the fade probably isn't the best. But it's my fade. My wear and tear from work, cycling and raising a couple of kids."

A selection of detail shots showing the wear.

I've worn them in from raw, I sized up initially and had them tapered in quite blunt at the hem. I took them to an old Turkish tailor who when explaining that I wanted to keep the selvedge line nice and slim, shooed me away pridefully saying 'I know', needless to say, when I returned a week later to pick them up he hadn't listened to me and the selvedge edge is fat and chunky. But to be honest, I like them that way- they're unique. Its probably sacrilege to the hardcore denim nerds but to be honest, I'm not keen on their 'the way we used to live' fancy dress 'where's my steam engine' lifestyle/look. I live in the real world.

I could harp on about the history of denim and its primal association with an outlaw lifestyle but I won't ..Its bad enough that I'm sat here typing about my trousers... so anyway, there you have it. I like wearing my jeans."
Glenn Kitson is the co-founder of The Rig Out magazine (issue IV is a must read), a PR, stylist and many, many other things.  

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Weekend Reading Tip... Acne Paper Issue 12

Each issue of Acne Paper is created around one key idea and is an eclectic yet coherent creative narrative mix that deserves to be savoured. Read and re-read at one's leisure. Issue twelve is the youth issue and explores a number of questions for the reader. What is it like being a young ballet dancer today, or a classical musician, a playwright, or (most interestingly for us) a craftsman? Through interviews, documentary, photography, portraiture, biography, and of course fashion, the latest issue celebrates many young talents, and also those who look upon youth from a creative point of view. At two hundred and fifty six pages, it is the biggest edition to date. The hefty weight of the issue explains why I opted for a full tea pot to accompany my morning read. Of course you can flick through the issue online but for me, this is a publication that could and indeed should, only be enjoyed in hand.

Treasured Items... Dal Chodha

As snapshots from tradeshows and faraway catwalk accounts whizz before my tired eyes at breakneck speed, I have to confess that a momentary change of pace and focus is needed for my sanity. As we are all shown glimpses in to the future with the unveiling of the SS12 season it is all too easy to become muddled and confused about the present and the past. As a needed respite (for me atleast), I'd like to unveil our latest feature series, Treasured Items. 

Now, I've refrained from using the term 'new' to describe this series because it has been appropriated from the second issue of b magazine. In a feature entitled Wardrobe Stories the likes of Harris Elliot, Charlotte Mann, Tim Blanks and Lulu Roper-Caldbeck all revealed their most treasured sartorial possessions and told the story behind them. Cherished items included a Christopher Nemeth jacket, an APC dress, a Junya Watanabe Hawaiian shirt and a Camilla Staerk clutch. It was a pleasure to read these wardrobe tales and it is something I'd like to regularly replicate here.  Instead of consulting his lawyer, b magazine's very own Dal Chodha has agreed to kick start our series and helps us realise that there's more to menswear blogging than the goings on at the latest fashion week.

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Dal Chodha and the treasured charity shop find

"Peering through my closet, looking for something that I ‘cherish’ was difficult and through the process, I was forced to recognise that I’m not the sort of person that gets very emotional about objects (especially not clothing.)

This seersucker, grey and navy stripe shirt was bought in a charity shop about six years ago for only a few pounds and it has gone on to define a lot of my sartorial choices. The shirt itself was once made by hand – maybe as a part of some costume – it has no care label or washing instructions and the shape is somewhat mistaken, which is the reason I love it so much. It’s very short on the body and cut very square, the sleeves are very stunted too, reminding me of something Jacques Tati might have worn. As Ian Batten told me recently, ‘menswear is all about proportion.’" Dal Chodha

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Weekend Reading Tip...b magazine

As soon as b store's eponymous publication was first unveiled back in September we were hooked. Now on its fourth issue we still cannot put it down. b magazine is a publication that sells ideas and information. Editorially driven, it looks at creatives from a wonderfully unique angle. The world it weaves through and explores means that this is a publication that is nigh on impossible to put down. It concerns itself with what they are reading, rather than what they are wearing and worries more about familiarity than fantasy. In this stellar fourth issue we are introduced to a number of gallery gangs, hear tales from four filmakers who are distorting the space between reality and epitome, fall ever more for the tailored charms of the delightful Ian Batten, immerse ourselves in 90s clubland and are taken on a brutalistic tour of the capital. It is quite the read.

Entitled HEAT WAVE, the issue helps us get in to the Summer sensibility (in spite of the current threat of a torrential downpour) as photographers Aitken Jolly, Mel Bles, Alex Sainsbury and Nick Dorey shoot the very best that the warm season has to offer and preview b stores’s first full womenswear collection designed by Natascha Stolle. Despite tempting me with the label's womenswear, it is the men's editorials that get me hot under the collar as they showcase combination after combination of key pieces from my favourite designers. Below are just a few of the highlights...

Top three images taken from Steppin' Up with photography by Alex Sainsbury and Jason Hughes as fashion editor . Bottom three shots taken from 'Groovy, laidback and nasty' with photography by Mel Bles and Steven Westgarth as fashion editor.

As I wait hopefully and somewhat impatiently for the the return of the sunshine (and daydream about those Wooyoungmi boots), I'll continue to immerse myself in and feel the editorial warmth of b magazine's heat wave.

Weekend Reading Tip... Sebastian

As my face spends the majority of its hours illuminated by ever present and strangely comforting glow of a screen and countless words interjected by the odd figure whizz before my eyes, there are times when a change of pace is needed. It is at these moments that I reach for a favourite magazine. You would never know that print media was struggling in our household. There are magazines everywhere. Both of us spend far too much time and money in newsagents. Granted there are occasions where a purchase will be enthusiastically flicked through only to be put down, then filed away and forgotten, however, over the last few years there has been a shift in publications that deserve to be savoured, kept and rediscovered all over again. Hostem's in house bi-annual publication Sebastian is proving to be just that. Having finally picked up my own copy on Monday I've been reluctant to put it down.

Edited by Vague Paper's very own Matthew Holroyd, the debut issue is considered, curious, creative and intelligent. It is full of surprises. It features a conversation between artisan baker Lily Vannili and caterer Margot Henderson, a piece on New York architecture, interviews with Maureen Paley and Geoffrey B Small, advanced photography from Asger Carlsen and even a piece on horse riding penned by Katie Price. However, the real highlight of the issue is the Casely-Hayford piece.

Since its inception, Casely-Hayford have explored the intriguing duality of English sartorialism and British anarchy. It is a house that encourages change whilst being grounded in tradition. Their fifth collection, entitled The light through the darkness, consolidated their now signature style of relaxed masculine proportions, fused with an injection of London's cocktail of youth culture. Their partnership, a father and son collaboration has always intrigued me and undoubtedly sets them apart. The differences and synergy between them are far more complicated that they first appear. The Sebastian piece examines their creative dynamic and their influences very well indeed. From the influence of Joe's politician, lawyer and writer grandfather J.E Casely-Hayford MBE to the works of Roland Barthes and the rise of fast information, great insight is offered in to the House of Casely-Hayford.

"All men possess elements of anarchy in their character. Anarchy is not about the total absence of rules, but can also represent a unique expression of freedom created when conformity threatens identity, or convention restricts spontaneity; we fuse this expression of the free spirit with the very particular gestures of English sartorialism. The House aims to distil a multitude of ideas in to a simple pure entity. Innovation through tradition."

Joe Casely-Hayford

All clothes by Casely-Hayford. Photography by Edith Bergfors

I have focussed on one feature here but the issue is proving to be great read throughout. We are told that the next issue will have a different name and personality, and will be available in the autumn. In the meantime I'm happy for Sebastian keep me company.