Unpicking the seams...H by Harris for GQ iPad Case

H by Harris for GQ iPad Case

To coincide with the launch of the the GQ iPad App,  H by Harris has collaborated with the gentleman's monthly to create a limited edition case. It is the perfect match up. Harris' personal need to find a stylish yet practical laptop case has continued to evolve into a thoroughly modern, yet understated luxury luggage brand which is designed and manufactured in the UK. As with all of the carefully crafted accessories that he produces, the exclusive case is an item that fuses function with design. Hand crafted from luxurious Navy hide leather, the interior features contrast grey suede lining, a card holder and space for documents. It turns my indifference towards the machine in to longing. I need an iPad just so I have an excuse to possess this case, to be able to stroke the quilted butter soft hide. However, before rushing off to the Apple store, we sat down with the designer to learn more about the collaboration and the item itself... 

A closer look at that butter soft Dallas leather

SS: How did the collaboration with GQ come about?

Harris Elliott: As with most good things, it started with a simple conversation, i was chatting to Robert and Vanessa at GQ about the different projects they were planning regarding the launch of the GQ App.... Then it became obvious that we should try and do something.

SS: What was the initial starting point for the item?

Harris Elliott: Luxury, protection and style. I wanted it to be one of those pieces that had it's own identity.

SS: Why attracted you to designing an ipad case?

Harris Elliott: GQ were launching their iPad app for their October issue. They had released a pilot issue in July which was amazing, everyone I showed the app to, couldn't believe that magazines had reached that stage of digital development. So it made sense to create a new luxe case to commemorate the launch.

SS: How did you go about stamping your take on this accessory?

Harris Elliott: One of the H by Harris trademarks is quilting, we used the quilt so people would know it was an H by Harris design.

SS: This season marks a shift in your quilted offering. We've all grown accustomed to seeing the diamond quilted (Q1) skin but now we are introduced to the striped quilting. Could you talk us through this introduction?

Harris Elliott: Since day one I had planned on introducing new styles and leather/fabric applications. My head is always two steps or a year ahead of reality. So AW11 became the time to introduce the stripe. Inspired by the shoulder padding on old motorcycle jackets, this style is very popular with boys, so it was the obvious choice for the GQ man.

SS: Could you talk us through some of the technical processes and people involved in making the case?

Harris Elliott: Robert Johnston (GQ features editor) and myself discussed the features that we felt an iPad case for a guy should have. So a space for cards and possibly a passport, seemed like a nice touch.

The leather we used is called Dallas, a butter soft hide with a slight creamy texture. Unlike nappas that H by Harris uses a lot, you can see and feel the grain of the leather, so the luxe look is in shape and form.

We worked with a sign writer, and an old school book binders to produce hand printed cards, with double foil blocking.

Of course there were the artisans that put it together....

A closer look at the personalisation

SS: Did you encounter any problems? How were they resolved?

Harris Elliott: The initial problem was time, we had two months to produce the cases from start to delivery...you normally have much longer than that from sketch to end user. We had a week to produce the initial prototype which was stressy as the first proto had to be almost spot on.... Thankfully it was.

SS: How would you describe the finished piece in your own words?

Harris Elliott: Contemporary luxury, I can always tell how good something is, when people instantly comment on a product, pick it up and caress it before being asked their opinion.

SS: I notice a bit of personalisation on some of the cases, is this a new way forward for H by Harris?

Harris Elliott: Definitely, it's something we've planned to introduce for a while. In the past we have created metal plates and embossed customers names into the leather labels for them. Scriptwriting takes it to the next level, it makes the item completely exclusive, because of the hand craft nature, therefore increasing the personal value that a customer places on their purchase.

We work with an amazing sign writer who hand paints typography for art installations. It's been a pleasure working with him.

The sign writer in action.

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A limited number of cases will soon be available on the wonderfully revamped H by Harris site. Each case can be hand personalised by the script writer.

When passions collide

There are few occassions where my two passions, Arsenal and menswear, collide. Despite being well designed and showcasing the very latest in fabric design, football shirts should not be considered as anything more than football shirts. In fact, I've often revelled in keeping them seperate and only those of you who follow my personal twitter ramblings will realise just how obsessed I am by the red and white half of North London. However, this year marks the one hundred and twenty fifth anniversary of Arsenal and to honour this landmark, their kit sponsor Nike reimagined one of their own most iconic pieces, the NSW Destroyer jacket. In a combination of tradition and modern motifs, the sportswear giant created an ideal jacket for the terraces. Packed full of detailing that celebrate the history of the club it is a truly special anniversary item. Thanks to the generous folk at Nike I have one of the limited editions jacket, which I tried on for size whilst walking the short distance down the road to the relatively new home of Arsenal, the Emirates.

Now that my mind is buzzing with memories of being an Arsenal fan, I'm reminded that there was a time when I hated football. My Dad would try in vain to tempt me to watch George Graham's Arsenal grind out results but I preferred to play with my Teenage Mutant Ninja turtles in my tiny box room. On any given match day I wanted to be far away from the nervous atmosphere of the living room as he would pace up and down the thick brown carpet (it was the 80s afterall) muttering obscenities mixed in with player's names and commentator back talk. As a toddler I just could not understand this religion cloaked in red and white and how it had such control over the mood of the house.

Proudly wearing my first full Arsenal kit alongside my best friend Stephen Love.

However, one day this fog of confusion was lifted. I cannot recall the exact instant but I can remember a particular moment in 1989. The living room was tense after a long tight season, Arsenal were away at Anfield and we were about to snatch the title at the very last minute. Even now I can hear my Dad screaming "Shoot...shoooooot" the moment Michael Thomas picked up the ball from Alan Smith's delicate dink. In an instant, fear, frustration and agony were replaced with relief, elation and sheer delight. The sight and sound of my Dad in the throws of football ecstacy could well have been the moment I too fell in love with the game.

I'm not sure what I'm doing here, I'm either exicted to be wearing the kit or in desperate need of the loo.

However, it was upon my first visit to Highbury that I fully understood the allure of the Gunners. Despite watching Arsenal lose one nil in a terribly dull ninety minutes against Blackburn, I was hooked on the match day ritual. The drive to London, the pre-game drink and meet up, the carnival like march to the stadium, the collective chorus of the fans, the fact that nothing else matters in that hour and a half. In the years that have followed I have been seduced by the sweat and tears that surely follow The Arsenal. From the machine like defence honed by Graham, to Bruce Rioch marking a new dawn with the signing of Bergkamp through to Wenger's entertaining invincibles I've followed it all with beating heart and open mouth. Adams, Wright, Limpar, Pires, Henry, Vieira have all been idolised only to be replaced by a new breed as the next incarnation of greatness lac up their boots and step out on to the hallowed turf. Much to the frustation of friends and family, the game has made and broken many a weekend ever since and will no doubt continue to do so ever more. Come on you reds...

Trying on the limited edition NSW Jacket on for size outside of Arsenal's home, the Emirates. Teamed up the special jacket with a breton top by Le Minor, chinos by Dockers and my well worn Kudu boots from Lodger.

Emblazoned across the chest is a felt and leather ‘A’ applique taken from the old AFC crest.

The right wrist features an embroidered AFC graphic referencing the initialled monogram badge originally only worn for high-profile matches

One of my favourite details. Satin stiched to the the left sleeve are leather appliques of historic Arsenal Football Club crests. The one pictured here is the first one I kissed back when I first fell in love with the club.

How many teams have a latin motto? Arsenal's very own 'Victoria Concordia Crescit’ (Victory grows out of harmony) is worn proudly on the right sleeve

The ghosts of Ted Drake, Herbert Chapman, David Rocastle and so many more are sewn in to the very seams of this jacket. Similarly, the greats of Arsenal surround the stadium. Here I am in front of the 'oh so dreamy' Bobby Pires.

Details: Close up on a Labrat

One of the Labrat team wearing the collection oh, so well. The combination of leather and distressed cotton caught my eye.

Discovering Tokyo... Labrat

Discovering Labrat

Now, you might have noticed that the blog has been quiet recently. I landed in Tokyo on Saturday afternoon and I've since spent the last few days drunk on food and shopping. When I've not been stuffing my face with sashimi, gyozas, tonkatsu or yakitori, my mind has been blown by the myriad of retail opportunities and discovering designers at every turn. Alongside my recent trip to Singapore I have amassed enough content to keep the blog busy for weeks to come. Whilst I promised myself (and EJ) that I would use this time to take a little blogging holiday to just enjoy myself, I just couldn't resist sharing a few of my finds with you. First up, Labrat via BerBerJin.

BerBerJin are a chain of vintage shops in that have been at the heart of the thriving men’s vintage scene in Tokyo for well over a decade. They have always stocked museum quality examples of international vintage, but recently they creative minds behind it have collaborated with like minded brands to produce items that compliment their beautiful back catalogue and archive. Under the moniker Labrat, the talented bunch romanticise the hardcore and celebrate the underground. Thanks to the well informed Mai, I was pointed in the direction of an exhibition of their AW11 collection and excitedly jumped at the chance to inspect the pieces up close. I was blown away by the attention to detail, fabrications and sheer diversity of their offering. For this season alone they have collaborated with the likes of Blackmeans, George Cox, Porter, Vision, CA4LA, Black &Blue and Discovered. I think the best way to explore the full AW11 line is to introduce the collaborative lineup whilst taking a closer look at the designs...

With each season, Discovered turn to the streets of Tokyo for inspiration. From Shibuya down through Harajuku, the designer duo Tatsuya Kimura and Sanae Yoshida collate and reinterpret the varied styles to create multi faceted designs. The pair like nothing more than juxtaposing contradictory themes and here they have created stunning Aran knits for oversized shorts and jumpers...

The Aran knitted shorts and jumpers in collaboration with Discovered.

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One of the more familiar brands of Tokyo native labels involved with Labrat is Porter. Now, everyone should know this maker of well crafted and elegantly designed accessories so I will fast forward on the introductions. Here, the minds of Labrat and Porter combine to create MA1 jackets, matching shorts and laceup backpacks...

The varied fruits of the collaboration with Porter
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Blackmeans is a local leather specialist that started out in 2005 as a leather goods manufacturer but soon evolved and began producing their own lines of leather motorcycle jackets, belts and accessories. Here, they continue their successful partnership with Labrat to create a number of jackets and a leather skirt...

The Lightning Leather Jacket with fringe detail beautifully modelled by a member of the Labrat team.

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Having first produced brothel creepers in the 50s and winkle pickers in the 60s, George Cox gained notoriety in the 70s when these looks were resurrected by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren to become the uniform of a generation of punks. Now, one hundred and five years old, the company still continues to grow and develop thanks to their archive of lasts and hunger for product development. Here, the collaboration with Labrat produces the Cross Boot...

The Cross Boots in collaboration with George Cox
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Despite my enthused murmurings above, Labrat constitute more than just a number of successful collaborations. In addition to working with some of the finest names in Tokyo, the label have created a number of covetable pieces on their own. Highlights include double cloth basics, kilting and even a Chester coat...

Labrat's own mix of underground classics.
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A happy ending

Baartmans and Siegel x Grenson Brogue

On the 28th January 2010, during an evening packed with emerging design talent at the LCF MA showing in the ornate surroundings Raphael Hall at the V&A, I caught sight of a very special brogue indeed. Wouter Baartmans' Great Depression era inspired heady mix of tailoring, sportswear and fur was one of the real highlights from the class of 2010 and it introduced me to my dream footwear. The combination of leather and suede that strode past left me reaching, longingly from my seat. But they passed me by. A few months later and I encountered them for the second time during Amber Siegel's Oil Slick Birds inspired exploration of tailoring and texture in the LCF BA show. I fell for their charms all over again. Like all crushes, I needed to know more about them.

These beautiful brogues were indeed a collaboration between the two talented LCF graduates and  long standing British shoe maker, Grenson. A wonderful combination of craft, tradition and  innovation. With a history spanning more than one hundred and forty years you would forgive Grenson for resting on its Goodyear Welted soles. However, when compared to other classic English shoe makers, they been making the most positive and interesting moves in recent years. These brogues are certainly one of the finest examples. 

During a Baartmans&Siegel studio visit, I slipped my eager feet in to the suede tipped brogues. Words are not able to describe how good they felt and looked at this time. Reluctantly, I returned my treated feet to their now insignificant, hollow leather home. And that was that for a number of months. On occasion, I thought I had seen them from across the street, attached to a passing stranger or behind the window front of a store where my eyes would light up shortly before the realisation of my mistake would surface. All other similar shoes paled in comparison. Oh the heartache.

Fast forward to this weekend and I received a very special treat from the design duo. My very own pair. Wow. As Gabrielle once sang, "Dreeeams can come true." Well, it didn't take me too long before my excited feet forced themselves in to their new favourite home. 

For those of you who, like me, fell head over goodyear welted heels for the fruits of this Baartmans&Siegel collaboration, you'll be pleased to hear that a range will be released for SS12.

Ally Capellino AW11

The recent onslaught of AW11 Press Days have left me excited, confused and, if I'm honest, sweaty. There's something quite odd about flicking through rails of knits and thick jackets in rich fabrics in showrooms that feels like they would be the perfect place to grow tomatoes. My head and heart are caught between two seasons. As much as I welcome the warm sunshine and blue skies of today, part of me still longs for Autumn. The recent few peaks in to the future afforded by the press days have pushed me over the edge. The sight of Ally Capellino's latest additions and reworked modern classics made me forget about the heat.

With their roots in decaying industrial buildings and institutions, the colours for Ally Capellino's AW11 collection are shadowy and dark. The much loved waxy group has grown and is especially strong in a WW1 warm khaki colour. Soft olives and browns predominate, but there are rich reds and putty colours to balance the collection. There are new styles in the shape of a parka and handy rucksack in the waxy group and a whole new group, Luxe Wax, dedicated to mac users, with a 17” macbook finally accommodated in a luxurious rucksack. I've already got my eye on a few models but let me introduce you to a few highlights...

An old favourite of mine, Richard. 
An investment satchel in Italian vegetable tanned leather with contrast bridle leather straps.

One of the new additions, iGor from the Luxe Wax range.

From the Luggage range, meet Jasper. 
Unlined work and travel bags with beautifully stitched pocket detailing.

Rocky.

Meet Dave. A heavy waxed canvas, unlined bag with coated canvas base.

Frank and Frances from the Waxy range. 

British waxed cotton canvas in rich autumnal colours with a soft leather base and bridle leather buckled straps.

All look book images courtesy of Ally Capellino

These look book images remind me just why Autumn is my favourite season. I just love those mornings from late September through to early December where you can layer, wrap and protect yourself in an assortment of comfortable and practical fabrics. Wool, tweed, cashmere, waxed cotton and anything else you can get our hands on are all layered on to envelop and comfort you.

Anglo Sky

Cobalt blue braided leather belt by Anglo in front of a blue sky.

Have you noticed how the mood lifts the moment that blanket of winter grey doom and gloom lifts and is replaced by a surrounding of blue? The last few days have seen nothing but hazy sunshine and near cloudless skies and everyone seems happier for it. I'm certianly in the mood to celebrate the arrival of warmer days. Yesterday, this cheer took me for a stroll down one of my favourite London streets, Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury, where I could not resist the retail allure of Darkroom. Since opening its doors in late 2009, I've popped in at every opportunity and often walked away with a little something. This concept store comprises of a curated mix of interior and fashion accessories alongside regular art and sculpture exhibitions which combine to continually pique interest. My latest visit was timely as they had just taken receipt of a delivery of colourful braided belts from Anglo.

Now, Anglo Leathercraft's belts and bags are all made in England using the finest and most intricate leather working techniques. The British brand has amassed quite a following in Japan, yet are little known in the UK. Darkroom is helping to change that though and the latest collection of brightly coloured braided leather accessories are perfect for the warmer months. So perfect in fact that I could not resist the cobalt blue option.

"Blue days all of them gone, nothing but blue skies from now on."

Ella Fitzgerald - Blue Skies.

H?Katsukawa from Tokyo for AW11

Better than any medicine, a look at H?Katsukawa from Tokyo for AW11

The last few days have seen me bedridden with the worst type of flu I've ever experienced. A symphony of moans and groans accompanied by a percussion of sneezes and wheezes with the odd fever induced soliloquy have echoed around my bedroom. This morning I could check my emails for the first time in days and was treated to a batch of images from Eiichi Katsukawa that made me feel instantly better.  Now, Katsukawa makes hand made, eye poppingly colourful and patterned brogues, along with wonderfully textured distressed Nibe leather brogues from his studio in Tokyo. His carefully crafted leather creations are far better than any spoonful of medicine.

Last June I was fortunate enough to meet the craftsmen at Pitti Uomo and it was an absolute pleasure to talk through his label and be introduced to his designs in person. After gaining experience in Tokyo, he moved to Northampton to study shoe design and production methods at the Tresham Institute’s Practical Design and Shoemaking Course. It was there that he had the opportunity to meet the great Paul Harnden. Following his graduation from the Institute, he studied further under Paul as a intern at Brighton before returning to Tokyo in October 2004. His passion for shoe making has since evolved whilst working at the Shinjuku Isetan men’s shoe repair center and through his participation in a number of successful collaborations. Katsukawa is currently focusing on his eponymous collection and his offering is growing with each season. Knowing that I missed out on Pitti this season, he has sent through a few images that he'd like me to share with you. Let me introduce you to his smile inducing yet stunningly beautiful, hand crafted designs...

 A look at H?Katsukawa from Tokyo's AW11 presentation.

 The Symmetry derby alongside the Nibe leather brogues and boots.

 A closer look at the texture rich distressed Nibe leather.

 Silkprint houndstooth, check and star prints.

Paint splattered Nibe leather brogues.

Eiichi Katsukawa at his AW11 presentation wearing a pair of his Armylast Torico's. 
All images by Ogiwara.


"I express the avant-garde style as new viewpoints and the day-to-dayness as enjoyments by creating a form of shoes. And the essence of that form is intangible love."

Katsukawa on his leather creations.

For Eiichi Katsukawa shoes should be enjoyed. In addition to being well crafted, they should bring a smile to the face of the wearer and the people who encounter them throughout the day.  His collection of bold designs certainly does both. His collection is currently available at United Arrows only but I'm hoping he picks up a few more stockists this season and I'll be able to update you during Pitti 80.