Friday, April 17, 2009

A new bespectacled era

Copenhagen’s Han Eyewear releases its Harry frame in Tortoise. Image courtesy of Selectism.

Some of you may or may not be aware of the fact that I should wear glasses (especially for computer work) but frequently choose not to. I just have not found a pair of frames that I've fallen in love with and want to wear day in day despite at having two pairs at my disposal. It strikes me as strange that you can now walk in to any High Street store and pick up frames with plastic lenses and the fact people treat them as a style accessory, whilst I still refuse to wear the frames I have on a consistent basis. I find the whole plastic lens thing a little strange but bespectacled chaps are everywhere (even on the front cover of the next issue of 10 Men) so for a chap who should actually wear glasses, it could be the incentive I need. Why don't I wear my glasses more often, I hear you ask? I think I was conditioned as a young child at school (when I did not need them) that glasses were a terrible thing, they were considered even worse than braces. Glasses singled out a child for much name calling and down right bullying. Belatedly the time has come for me to recondition myself and approach glasses in a much more reasoned way and this weekend will begin the start of new bespectacled era. All I have to do is decide now is decide on the frames which will take me there...

During our style stalking of Elliott James Sainsbury he treated us with a number of frames but my favourites were from SUPER. The brand apparently ignited the phenomenon of acetate sunglasses and their frames have graced the noses of Kanye West, Daft Punk and Justice to name but a few...Elliott introduced me to the brand with these chunky grey plastic frames and EJ made me fall in love with the navy version (both available from FarFetch). However much I admire these frames, my search continues...

Selectism informed one and all that Copehnhagen's Han are introducing two new frames - the Grad Danois and Harry (above) for Spring/Summer 09. Grand Danois comes in Mahogany whilst Harry, which is my particular favourite is produced in Tortoise only. I've wanted a pair of Tortoise frames ever since I was first told that I suffered from astigmatism in my left eye. John from SeventySomething let me try his pair on last weekend (apparently I looked like Buddy Holly) and this has only whet my appetite further. His pair are Anne et Valentin from Kirk Originals (apparently the same brand as Stephen Fry's new pair) and he duly pointed me in the direction of Floral Street in Covent Garden and go there I will tomorrow. The Staple has reminded me of the plentiful offerings over on Moscot which has been something of a New York institution for the last 100 years and now has a fully functioning online store (I now have my good eye on this pair). Please drop me any recommendations you might have below. I will update you all on my quest for the frames which will provide me the confidence to enter my bespectacled era and will provide you lots of pictures along the way.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

The red hair bob

red_bob

red_bob_close

Playing in puddles

The Fashionisto brought one of the longest named collaborations we have ever come across to our attention yesterday but the fruits of this team up are certainly worth a follow up. We have truly entered the season of April showers and in truth I am fed up with my limited lightweight outerwear options and am therefore on the hunt for something new. The longest named collaboration is between Slow and Steady Wins the Race and the newly-found and wonderful store Stand-Up Comedy in Portland. The first installment provides a simple catalogue of rainwear staples inspired by Portland’s wet weather. The wet weather conquering options include trench coats, ponchos, rain boots, rain caps, umbrellas and even a cargo backpack carryall to ensure that we all stay dry.


The rain cape above has really got me excited. There is something about a torrential downpour and its aftermath which reduces us all to little children who love nothing more than playing in puddles and the very idea of a rain cape surely plays on this very point. The Fashonisto reliably informed me that in addition to being stocked at Stand Up Comedy, the collection will be available at Opening Ceremony, Hejfina, as well as a few other stores...so I might just be able to pick something up.

A guilty pleasure...Teen Vogue

The title of this post is not a typo. In all seriousness Teen Vogue has been one my guilty pleasures ever since I first borrowed a copy from Susie during our 'courting period'. Whilst she was blogging like a maniac I was left twiddling my thumbs (this was before Style Salvage) so I picked up an issue and was impressed by the refreshing quality of the editorials. If you are laughing at this point, I will try and persuade you that I am indeed right and not mad. I accept that I am not the target audience of this magazine, I concede that I am neither American or indeed a teenage girl but does this really matter? As I flick through the magazine or sneak-a-peek over Susie's shoulder I always take notice of the editorials. The relaxed photography, the well chosen, healthy looking models and the combination of labels used always surprises and dare I say it, inspires me somewhat.

As the sunshine which I was beginning to get used to seems to have left us here in London my mind is full of dreams of travel and this World Traveller editorial taps right in to it and so I thought I just had to confess this guiltiest of pleasures to you all. I guess my magazine addiction is out of control...

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Howards End: Omar Kashoura AW09

Last season saw Omar Kashoura unleash his first full collection (Man Boy) following his graduation from his Masters at Central Saint Martins and subsequently forced me to declare that "this is a collection which demonstrates that the boy Kashoura is becoming a man." I am pleased to say that with his AW09 collection Kashoura continues to establish himself as one of Britain's leading menswear design talents.

Lookbook photographs by Alex Klesta

For Autumn Winter 09 Kashoura drew inspiration from the E. M Forster novel Howards End. The novel tells a story of class struggle at the turn of the 20th century by exploring the relationships of three families representing the different gradations of Edwardian middle England. Kashoura takes this inspiration and adds his trademark detailing whilst infusing shirt collars, jacket trims and trouser pleats, resulting in a collection that offers simplistic silhouettes which create a bold impact.

Lookbook photographs by Alex Klesta

I was fortunate enough to man handle the collection during a press viewing and the detailing and combination of fabrics left me purring. I've been impatiently waiting for either look book or show images to share with you but now the wait is over and you can all enjoy the collection. Fine silk jersey pieces are offered up in deep shades of chocolate and blueberry. Thick cotton knits come in the form of a rich brown day jacket and natural amice scarf with pull and toggle features.

Kashoura collaborated with Jarah Stoop for this bag in lavender leather with lamb's fur trim.

The accessories eloquently complimented this luxurious collection and really gace me something to think about for next season. Kashoura collaborated with Royal College of Art graduate Jarah Stoop and the result is a range of opulent bags in lavender leather (above) and custard canvas with lamb’s fur trim which left me salivating at the the press viewing. The Lodger shoes continued the exploration of relazed luxury with the highlight pair being these blue suede brogues which are truly something.

Kashoura narrowly missed out on showing at MAN but presented his AW09 collection at Arabian Fashion World (he is of English and Arabic descent) on April 6th. It was the first all Arab fashion event in Europe and staged at London’s InterContinental Hotel in Park Lane (for a full show report please visit BUCK). It is great to see that the label has had its first catwalk show but surely we shouldn't have to wait too long before we see Kashoura take his rightful place amongst the creme of British design talent at LFW?

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Does menswear provide the first green shoot of the economic recovery?

The green shoots...Tom Ford, E. Tautz and Lanvin.

In the face of the economic recession (or Moneygeddon as rebranded by Newswipe) Charlie Porter for the FT recently reported that men’s wear sales rose one per cent to $4bn (as women's apparel sales fell 6%) but the first nine months of 2008. This is spending which runs counter to what might be expected in a time of rising unemployment, curtailed bonuses and the seemingly all encompassing thick, choking smog of doom and gloom we are told to fear. So does menswear provide the first green shoot of the economy recovery?

It is a little silly to go over board about a one percent rise but the optimism is justifiable. It seems that however bad things get, the luxury male consumer will go on about his ordinary way of consuming as long as labels provide the service and quality expected of them. We have spent a lot of time thinking about luxury in the downturn following our post on the subject. It is certainly true that some brands are struggling and many of those that are deserve to, after churning out poor quality products adorned with sky high price tags but there many brands who are taking advantage with their cautious optimism. Tom Ford puts the success of the label down to the clothes being perceived as investments and we certainly approve the idea of investment pieces and the art of wardrobe building as preached to us by Patrick Grant's E. Tautz label.

One of the shining lights of menswear in recent years has been the house of Lanvin. In every line of every interview that I've read featuring him, Lucas Ossendrijver always leaves me nodding my head in approval, on this subject he provide the following snippet of wisdom;

“With men, it’s more about needs, if they buy something, it’s really because they need something.”

If I'm honest I frequently buy more than I actually need but at the time I convince myself that a need exists but so many chaps I know practice the described generalisation. As a result, of this understanding, Ossendrijver doesn't strive to design whole looks, but rather he designs pieces. For him it is not necessarily about a total outfit but the individual parts that make up a wardrobe. This is a healthy way to look at men's fashion in any economic climate but certainly when things get a little tight. The key is to look at collections for key pieces which will truly add something new, something different to your wardrobe and then enjoy them.

On Song in Seoul


I came across Korean designer Song Zio over on the Fashion156 daily blog over Easter Weekend and just had to share the highlight of Seoul Fashion Week with you all. As the sunshine and (mild) heat of the previous week had deserted us during our four day long weekend, this collection provided more than a little sartorial inspiration to ponder whilst eating the odd mini egg or twenty.

There really is life beyond the standard fashion week circus and it is so much fun uncovering talent from more far-flung Fashion Weeks. As the grey skies and drizzle played havoc with my Easter plans (I just wanted to eat, drink and be merry in pub gardens and parks in a relatively deserted London) I was comforted by the alpacas, cashmeres and leather which was folded and draped in to quite wonderful sculptured jackets, and wide, billowing trousers.

These are silhouettes that you just don't see in street style and it is a real shame. The dramatic effect of the trouser is what really made me fall for this collection and it is something I would love to integrate in to one or two looks. This is not as simple as it sounds and will require a trip to a tailor as the High Street fails to deliver on volume. Although a little controversial, I personally loved Kris Van Assche's samurai trousers showcased in his Dior Aw08 collection and expected to see a few more affordable options trickle down to the High Street but I'm still waiting. Of course they are a little difficult to wear but as Van Assche declared himself "at the beginning, everybody thought that stretch black jeans were hard to wear." I for one long to experiment with volume and play with a few different silhouettes this season and it would be nice to see something other than skinny jeans.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Womens Summer Clothing | Designs of Salwar Kameez

Salwar Suit Designs

Checkout the new and exclusive range of Womens Summer Clothing , Salwar Suit designs designed by young Fashion designer of India.
















Indian Fashion Salwar Kameez and Kurtis




Indian Fashion Salwar Kameez and Kurtis are all the way comfortable yet elegant and easy to wear. Womens Summer Clothing that includes Designer Kurtis, Salwar Kameez and Churidar are the latest trend in Indian fashion, some are embellished with gorgeous machine embroidery designs, they manage to look smart enough for casual apparel, family gatherings, or even for a wedding ceremony.







Nowadays salwar suit designs are created keeping in mind the trends fabrics and colors of the season by clothing designers and manufacturers of women's garments.




















Unlikely Style Icon: Alexander Rodchenko

Rodchenko standing in front of dismantled hanging spatial construction 1922, portrait by Mickhail Kaufman.

Happy Easter to one and all! We celebrated Good Friday with a little culture as EJ took me to see the Rodckenko and Popova exhibition at the Tate Modern. The exhibition explores the work of two of Russia's most avant garde artists and examines their evolution from abstract painting to graphic designs, the show includes cinema and theatre poster designs, books and costumes as well as paintings and sculpture. Although his architectural investigations and free standing sculptures were interesting, out of the whole exhibition, the above photograph left the biggest impact on me. In many of the photographs, Rodchenko appears to be styled as the archetypal bond villain (the only thing missing me a white furry cat in his lap and an gaudy lair setting complete with piranha filled fish tank) but here, he is styled to perfection in his all in one. The latest issue of Fantastic Man reminded us of the practical elegance of an all in one with stylist Elgar Johnson in an attractive boilersuit by Seagull from Leyland DSM (pg 165) as did Menswear in a recent post with colourful options from Dickies Workwear. Rodchenko, however is surely donning the best jumpsuit I've seen all season. I fell in love with the above image as soon as it was pointed out to me by the lovely couple from Seventy Somethings but when I found out later in the exhibition that Rodchenko had designed the jumpsuit himself, my admiration was immeasurable. My favourite design feature are the oversized double pockets, of course I currently have no need for such extravagant pockets but I should take up something which creates the use...Rodchenko's style is practical and purposeful, two hugely admirable traits.

Popular Posts