Jimmy Fix it For Me

Apologies if I got you excited with the post name, this isn't a post about Jimmy Saville's style but I want to talk about the other Savile. From an early age (far too young to be even thinking of suits) I've wanted to be have a Bespoke Suit from Savile Row (yes I accept I was a strange child). For me and many others Savile Row is a symbol of the very best in men's dress. Bespoke tailoring can be seen as the Haute Couture of men's style and Savile Row has dressed every icon of male elegance from Nelson, Valentino and Astaire to Sinatra and Jagger. I will focus this post on one tailor in particular but I am sure to return to some others during my future posts. It is fitting to begin my exploration of Savile Row at Number 1 and at this address I find Gieves & Hawkes.

I won't bore you (too much) with the details although I find it interesting (I'm such a geek) but they do help illustrate the great history and almost institution like status of the tailors found along this street. The company formed from two businesses who were already famous in their own right, Gieves (which was founded in 1785) and Hawkes (which is even older, founded in 1771). Gieves & Hawkes has received Three Royal Warrants which has seen over 200 years unbroken service to successive monarchs. For any historians out there King George III was in power during the first warrant. Famous customers include Lord Nelson and The Duke of Wellington.

Tailoring has always been an intensely personal business. Today one of the challenges for Gieves & Hawkes is to provide the same personal touch to a fast-growing number of customers (the lucky ones who can afford it as prices for the full tailoring service begin at £2,250), adapting to their current lifestyles, to modern fabrics and to society's ever-changing ideas on how to look one's best. Helping them adapt and evolve is Joe Casely-Hayford, who helped define The Clash's military look and has dressed U2 and Lou Reed. As creative director Joe Casely-Hayford has now finished his third collection and is taking traditional English Tailoring and giving it a new twist and in the process is decking out new dandies in timeless elegance. Caseley-Hayford was also the first in what has become a long list of designers to collaborate on a diffusion line with TopShop, it is no longer only for monarchs or diplomats, the image and creative vision of the house is of beautifully made, bespoke clothing, one that would suit any gentleman (who save up for it!).

Facial hair conundrum

Something I'm pondering at the moment is what appears to be a minor trend in the male hipster world. Something I am utterly jealous of, yet thankful I don't have. A bold affirmation of manhood. I am speaking of the moustache.

Now, I'm not sure how I actually feel about this. Part of me, probably the same part of me that used to want people to wear skinny trousers, wishes that more men would grow one. Lord knows I've tried to persuade those around me. But in reality, is it such a good idea? Let's look at a few examples.

David Niven in one of my favourite films ever, A Matter of Life and Death

Errol Flynn: a dashing, if slightly dodgy chap

There are plenty of examples of (what I consider) the classic 'tache. With slicked back hair or a neat hair cut and a sharp suit it keeps the look interesting, and a neat tache shows that you take care of yourself.

It's this next type of moustache that I'm most indecisive about.

Freddie Mercury (in a field, apparently)

The glorious Terry Richardson

This is what I call in my head 'the seedy moustache'. I'm torn. Is it good or awful? I suppose I'll just have to take it on a case-by-case basis. These, however, I am sure about: love, love, love

Brandon Flowers of the Killers. It may be controversial, but I love his look at the moment, he can do no wrong.

Picture courtesy of Facehunter. Quite extravagant, but not over the top. I think it works for me because the rest of the look is quite minimal.

There are no conclusions here I'm afraid. I'm as torn as ever but would love to hear other people's opinions about it: do you/have you/would you wear a moustache? If you are thinking about it, you may want to have a look here. If you go for it please send us a picture (we love hearing from you); the email address is on the right hand side of this page.

Oh I was waiting for one of us to bring up facial hair, well done you! I've been waiting for some good examples but I've not really been enamoured by anything. That said I approve of you choices, especially Richardson and the Facehunter shot (this is my favourite but because the moustache shines as its complimented perfectly by the minimalist street wear!). I am not a fan of Brandon Flowers (you are just biased because you fancy him) but the shot you have picked is a good one. Moustaches can look good but there is definitely a residing feeling within me that they are sported mainly as part of dressing up. Most men grow them either in jest or to look like a famous moustached man, ie Flynn, Niven, Selleck, Mercury. My point is, most men cannot wear moustaches seriously; (generally) people can't take moustached men seriously (for Historical examples of this phenomena see Chaplin and Hitler) and even the majority of moustached men cannot take themselves seriously (maybe I'm just bitter because I can't grow a substantial example. Thankfully it is not such an important measure of manhood today as it was just decades ago). I do concede however that this notion though could be turned on it's head but only by some kind of facial hair revolution. If I wished to grow one (and were able to) I think I would personally sport a cross between the 'pencil' and the 'paintbrush'...evolving into the 'English' in my fifties and finally turning to the 'Walrus' in my twilight years. Please see the below illustrations for guidance...

Once my next stage of puberty hits and the desire arrives I might grow a slightly thinner version of the above.

This will be me as I spend all day in my study, reading, writing and taking in the countryside.

New Dandyism

I visited the Surface 2 Air store in Paris and liked what I saw but I wanted to see more of it. The power of the internet led me to New Dandyism. Alongside a few surface2air pieces this online store had a great array of brands, including YMC, Wood Wood and Maharishi. According to this site 'A dandy can be defined as '(a) man who affects extreme elegance in clothes and manners; a fop.' Extending the idea of a dandy to the 'modern' world they advocate that men have a fresh appreciation for fashion and design. Caring more about how they look than they have for decades or even centuries. I'm not sure I agree with this notion myself but I guess the boom in male grooming products and retail as a whole must demonstrate something. Looking at modern society with a keener eye than most New Dandyism suggest that '(take) a closer look and you will find that today's street fashion is taking a modern approach to classic forms and silhouettes. Not just by re-interpreting classic pieces by applying modern materials, colors, and patterns, but also by adding details to increase usability and comfort.' I like this idea very much and it hit strikes a chord with the values of Stylesalvage. To celebrate this here are a couple of examples of the pieces on offer at the store:

YMC shirt. You should know that I like this brand.

Merlin T by Wood Wood (I love their stores ever since they were shown in Nylon Guys!)

Picture Postcard: Men and Make Up

I thought I would post an image or two from Paris, it would be rude not to and along the way open the debate of men and make up. Here are two example for you to discuss:

Image 1 is courtesy of Facehunter. Traditional but stylish and I think it looks good.

Image 2 is courtesy of DDD. I saw this in guy and thought it worked well although the image here doesn't show it in the best light.

Think I prefer the first one (and not just because he's prettier)... so Oliver Twist-y it almost hurts. I think this would work really well as a low key look for those sick of eye liner- it's certainly what my makeup ends up looking like by the end of the day. Teeny bit of shimmer on the cheekbones and done. Men's makeup, I feel, shouldn't take more than about 5 minutes, though I'm not sure why. The second look looks a bit like Adam Ant who missed. Or maybe the fifth ninja turtle.

Pick 'n' mix

Bonjour! Back on the same island at last!

Don't know if this has caught your eye yet, but I'd wager it'll be on your wish list soon. For the indecisive... the Diesel Puzzle trainer:

Not three different pairs of shoes, but one pair three ways. The first is a pretty regular, but delightfully shiny trainer. Next, something a little more substantial, something that might lend a work suit a nice little edge. Last, a high top, again with the delightfully shiny. I LOVE patent shoes right about now (more about that at a later date), so these are tempting. Sadly, they didn't have them in anywhere I looked so I can't give you a first hand impression. I'm not entirely convinced, though i like the idea of maybe taking the bits to work and changing your look slightly. I remain an Adi-whore though. (seriously, that last pair doesn't look like much in that pic, but me want)

Bon soir! It is great to have you back in ol' Blighty!

I am so tired but couldn't resist replying to this post! Seriously, it was BAD idea getting the Eurostar straight to work this morning, not only did it mean an early start but it also meant I had to go to work resembling a drowned rat...and I wanted to be the personification of Paris Chic! I have come across these before and they are on my wish list. Patent shoes and accessories in general though are so damn appealing. Just like a magpie to silver I am drawn to black patent trainers wanting to take each pair I see away with me back to my nest. These are better value for money than any others I've seen in recent shopping outings. The Hi tops are currently the best way to wear these though but it is nice having that option to transform the shoe. I'm interested in seeing these up close so I can examine the mechanism/fastening. I definitely have to see them in the leather. The images make the first two options look really clumpy and I like sleek trainers. The Lanvin Hi Tops are higher up on my wish list. Speaking of which, I drooled over the Lanvin window yesterday. I will post within the next day or so about the cool style facets I saw during my time in Paris.

Paris Style Update

I've seen plenty of well dressed guys in Paris over the last few days. Guys who have made me look at my own wardrobe and feel a little short changed. Of course there have been quite a few poorly dressed along the way. However, nothing can compare to these two finely dressed gentlemen. I came across them in the Palais de Tokyo which has a plethora of cool within it's walls!

I really want these. I might be too old for them but come on. They are so damn cool. My autumn/winter syle is inspired by it! They have fully functioning zips and everything.

Wish List: Lanvin Hi tops

During the Lanvin a/w 07 show there were a few good elements but the hi tops stole it for me and I really want a pair or something very similar. Now all I need to decide is which colour I want. The patent black is currently edging it.

I did see these on Kanye's blog, have you been on there yet? If so, what do you think? A tad self indulgent (not very surprising from Mr West though!) It has some really cool links. Go have a look here

The only living boys in New York

Jetlag is still ravaging my mind so I will try to be brief. America was very nice and our trip was quite hectic. I have never seen so many people in chinos as I did in Boston. American Gap is, as I had been told more boring than European Gap, although I did pick up some jeans. The hipster male is alive and well in New York, where everyone appears to be very slim. Possibly because the food isn't that great and they're all wired on coffee...

As expected, my attention was mostly focussed on museums and galleries, but I won't bore you with that. I did see some very lovely men during my visits though...

This stylish gent was in the Natural History Museum in New York. Love the gold, the hair and the eye makeup.

This chap was in the New York Metropolitan. Loving the hair, shoulder pads and daring head band.

I know I've said this before, but normal service WILL resume soon from me... something about shoes methinks. Must go, Charlie Brooker is on TV.

Hello everyone...

We know we have been extremely absent, but many things happened in the last couple of months and we are still adapting to a new routine... we may post again soon and we want to thank you the overwhelming number of messages asking us to continue posting!

Live Fight Night: Facehunter v Sartorialist

In the red corner, sockless and wearing navy trousers and olive green jacket with interesting neckwear, weighing in at 180 lbs, the undisputed champion of Street Style blogs...Scott 'the perfect amount of cuff on display' Schuman.

And in the blue corner, wearing a clash of check, the undefeated challenger...Yvan 'likes his eye candy' Rodic.

Verdict: The youthful Rodic wins, the lively check being too much for the autumnal but ultimately dull Schuman

As you can see I am a little overexcited about going to Paris. Apologies but can you blame me?
It was cool coming across some mutual love between two of the heavyweights of street style blogging! I came across Yvan (Facehunter) on sartorialists style.com blog and the compliment was soon reciprocated on Facehunter.

OK I must get back to washing and packing. What a crazy life I lead.

You SAW the SART?? Right, friendship terminated.

I think the facehunter wins here, but ultimately my heart belongs to Scott and his shots of grown-up style I can aspire to. Teenagers already make me feel bad enough about myself, without having to be told every other day that they're ten times more stylish (and, apparently, richer) than me.