Happy (colourful) Feet

Happy Socks are a recently formed Swedish label currently attempting to conquer the world of fashion socks. We are told that they were created on a rainy Sunday afternoon (most of my best plans are hatched during this scene) and the label is determined to give the world a mood boost with a blast of colour. "We design the kind of socks we want to wear ourselves, simple as that”, says Creative Director Viktor Tell. There can be little doubt that colour has an affect on our moods but unfortunately we often over look our feet. I must admit that before I fell in love with the colours on offer at Uniqlo I only ever wore socks in monochrome shades...at a push navy but now I just love my colourful socks. However you like to dress your feet Happy Socks is well worth a visit. We hope that they don't just stop at conquering the world of fashion socks but go forth and the conquer the world. The time for a colourful sock revolution is now.

Left feeling cold by wise words

Fashion156's latest editorial showing winter essentials by James Long and Melanie Broder.

During my obligatory Sunday call to my Grandparents where I hear about their weeks worh of trials and tribulations (who knew watching TV all day could be so hazardous and downright dangerous? I jest, I love my Sunday chats with the old folks.) my Nan warned me about that the cold weather on the way, she even mentioned snow. Snow in October, that's crazy talk...oh wait. As I was partaking in a pumpkin carving and soup making extravaganza on Wednesday night I noticed it getting cold, then it rained, then hailed, then snowed. It blew my fragile and somewhat excited little mind. I will never doubt my Nan again. Winter is upon us my friends. My calls for an early winter have been answered. Right on cue Fashion156 released their new issue, The Structured Issue and the editorial just makes me want to wrap up in giant knitted creations.

The chill factor makes me long for James Long's aw 08 collection

I've realised that even though I wanted Winter to arrive, I'm just not ready for it. I am going to James Long's AW 08 collection as my inspiration. I will go to war with the new chilly environment using a heady mix of sheepskin, suede, leather chunky knits and combining them with buckles and zips, to create my modern warrior look. This weekend will be a shopping filled one. More on this later...

Designers talk about the world of tomorrow

In light of the uncertain times ahead (more economy talk, I'm afraid but hear with me!) Men.Style.com have asked an eclectic mix of designers (ranging from Dries Van Noten to Yohji Yamamoto) for their predictions for men's fashion in the year ahead. We might all be sick of this constant recession talk but the points made here are much more interesting than the bog standard lazy journalism we have all been frustrated by in recent weeks and just look at the awesome illustrations (by a chap named Mickey Duzyj). The full feature can be read here.

My favourite illustrations on show...Browne, Simons and Yamamoto

Here is a summary of what the designers had to say...

Dries Van Noten - "There may, in parallel, even be a subtle slide toward the conceptual."

John Galliano - "Fashion has an insatiable appetite for change, for the new and for the innovative. Anything goes, as long as it's exciting."

Patrick Ervell - "From a creative standpoint, chaos and collapse can lead to great things and new beginnings. I think a little bit of creative destruction can be healthy and bracing."

Raf Simons - "We have to give the audience beauty and something to be excited about and something that stimulates."

Thom Browne - "I don't know what the future of men's fashion will be like. I just hope that everyone does their own thing… Because that is what I'm going to do."

Yohji Yamamoto - "Am I still going to be alive in 2009? I really hope so. I am a designer; I will go on designing until I die. This is my way of talking about 2009, 2010…"

What have I learned from all of this? Well, I've learned that I want nothing more than a Mickey Duzyj drawn comic charting the trials and tribulations of our favourite menswear designers!

Style Salvage's Tony Hart Moment

Steve has tried and failed (countless times) at picking up a pencil and producing something that it is worthy of your viewing pleasure. EJ has sketched something special but is nervous about posting - it will follow one day soon. Step forward Susie Bubble who has actually been pestering us to post her effort.

Here comes Style Salvage's Tony Hart moment...Readers have had more luck than us with a pencil and have put me to shame, we thank you all for taking part and apologise for the delay in posting your efforts. Even though Steve couldn't produce anything worthy of showcasing on the blog, his infantile sketching efforts certainly made him think about outfits in a more intense light. As he stared at the outfits of choice he analysed them deeply, taking in the cut, the use of colour, uncovering often over looked detailing...in short, even though the act of sketching was a failure the task was certainly worthwhile.

TheJournalofStyle

Giancinephile

Fushisaboy:

Me Buddha Banana:

Did you pick up a pencil? If you did, please let us know!

Picture postcard: commons gold

Found here

Dear Steve

I was making a cursory search of the commons on Flickr and came across this chap. Don't you think he's the most wonderful man you've seen this week? I was initially drawn to this photograph by his mustache (naturally) but then I was gripped by his gaze and his slightly furrowed brow. His hair is fantastic- it almost seems as though he's sporting a quiff... though since this picture was taken c. 1915 that seems unlikely. If that flower in his lapel doesn't persuade you to sport a buttonhole of your own (and not just your poppy) then I don't know what will.

EJ
x

P.S. Blog admin type stuff: follow the blog with bloglovin´, try out the search function on the sidebar and keep up to date with our posts and ponderings on twitter.

Thanks for sharing this chap with us EJ! he is absolutely awesome. Everything about him is perfect and he sets the style benchmark for any middle aged gentlemen, I want to be him when I grow up. His gaze would ordinarily be quite frightening but because he is so well turned out I see it more as a look of contempt. I heart him.

Denim Shorts at Stuart Semple's Denim event

We went to Stuart Semple's denim event at Selfridges the other day and found plenty to photograph. I love her denim shorts with tights and the ankle boots.

Kawakubo on her collaboration with H&M

Now we’ve all seen the full Comme des Garçons for H&M collection a number of times across the online world but put aside your personal opinion of the collection and read the reasons behind the collaboration. The Independent has an interesting article chronicling the collection which includes a number of quotes from Rei Kawakubo herself.

Image courtesy of mensrag via Selectism.

"The collection is constructed around Comme des Garçons' style. Rather than aiming to make clothes that no one has ever seen before, it is very much Comme des Garçons goes [back] to its roots." Rei Kawakubo

When asked why she’d do this collaboration she answered, “I was interested in selling Comme des Garçons in a new place where it has never been sold before and to people who may never have heard of it. Usually, Comme des Garçons only sells in places where people who understand it go.” There we have the reason behind most designer collaborations: to extend the audience and potential customer base for the label. "The first objective of high-street fashion is that it sells. Designer fashion is more about new creation. In some respects, the high street represents the bad side of democracy, the lowest common denominator, but it certainly appeals to me that many people may be able to discover Comme des Garçons through H&M."

As the article points out, there is always a danger within any designer-high street collaboration that it might detract from the main event, causing customers to buy into the more reasonably priced line at the expense of the original that inspired it. However, by reverting to classic pieces, Kawakubo has ensured that this will not be the case. In fact, it is more likely that by working with H&M she will bring a whole new customer into her own, more rarefied fold.

Now that you have seen the collection and had a chance to read the thoughts from the designer herself what do you make of it all? For me personally collaborations can only be a good thing. However, I still have my doubts about the quality of the garments but that is become of my deep rooted scepticism of H&M fabric choice and garment construction (buttons should not be missing from shirts which are still on the rack!).

Buck - First Issue News

We featured the launch of the online side of the magazine earlier in the month, we are now mere days away from the global launch of the actual magazine and I've been invited to the launch! From the 30th October the magazine will be available nationwide throughout the UK as it is will be stocked in the usual places including Borders and WHSmith and even Tesco, Marks & Spencer and ASDA! OK, so I know most of you live outside of the UK but don't worry it will be available internationally! It will be on sale in 35 Barnes & Noble stores in the US, and independent retailers in New York, San Francisco, Tokyo, Paris, and Milan from issue!

BUCK is apparently the first monthly men’s magazine in the UK to feature global street style in every issue and the first to combine fashion and design articles with significant food coverage (it caters for all my favourite needs (excuse the pun)). Most admiringly and interestingly, the magazine will be a showcase for new creative talent and will feature up and coming artists, bands and actors talking about their own style and tastes. Hopefully BUCK will become a must read for me...I'm eager to get my hands on it and judge it for myself and of course I'll share it with you. My magazine addiction will no doubt continue to bankrupt me...

Chase is the VMAN but Testino Takes Over

The latest cover VMAN features Gossip Girl star Chace Crawford, shot by Mario Testino

The latest issue of VMAN (which is the first ever winter issue!) is now available. As yet I've not managed to pick it up myself but I just had to remark on the cover. The cover boy is Chace Crawford, who if you don't know stars in one of my (many) guilty pleasures TV shows (I really should get out more and more importantly not admit to these things), Gossip Girl wearing D&G plaid. I have to admit though that when I first saw the cover I asked myself 'Why is Zac Efron' on the cover of VMAN...'Is VMAN turning into TeenVogue' (another guilty pleasure). I'm not 100% sold on the styling but I've certainly had enough of Efron for one lifetime.

For the magazine's first Winter Issue Mario Testino is guest editor. Within the issue he explores the extremes of masculinity. Testino explains “masculinity has come to be determined less by a man’s exterior than by his kindness, his fairness, his taste, his behavior. Now, you can look like one thing and be completely the opposite. I’m quite fascinated by this, so I decided to do a study of the extremes of masculine identity today.” Testino photographed thirteen extreme male archetypes, including Extreme Sun (the beach bum), Extreme ink (tattooed men), and Extreme Macho (bearded men), the other ten are a mystery until I get my hands on the issue. Have anyone read it? Should I hit the streets in search of it?

Is the thin man redefining fashion for his generation?

I only recently stumbled across the photos and musings of Bill Cunningham of The New York Times (after a reader pointed me in his direction). During my lazy weekend I have managed to catch up on the internet world and that included a visit to the New York Times Photographer's page where I came across his ideas on a new generation of men in New York. For Bill there has been an interesting evolution in men's style, with a new thin silhouette having reached the streets of New York in all its conservative force. After more than a decade where young men either cared nothing for clothes and more in frequenting the gym, or chose to dress like slobs. Now a younger generation are neat, precisely dressed and sleek are to the photographer's eye showing the future. Up to this point I am right there will Bill, nodding approvingly all the way BUT then he loses me by discussing the sobering economic period as reason why these men are dressing as they are and will continue to do so. There can be little doubt that (thankfully) there are an increased number of men who are taking an interest in men's fashion and most importantly their own style. The reasons why there has been this shift in male attitudes to their clothes is less clear. Is it really that important? Let's just continue to celebrate it.

A tiny touch of red

The red headband adds just enough colour to the ensemble...

Waiting for winter to be born

Yesterday was a beautiful Autumn day in London and it was spent in the best possible way, walking around Regents Park, kicking leaves and on the hunt for the duck pond which we never did find. Autumn is my favourite season as it offers so much styling opportunity. However, ever since EJ first told me about Yokoo and then Susie featured the etsy seller I've wanted to wake up to winter and have a wealth of winter accessories to choose from. Like a squirrel collecting his nuts for the cold months ahead I will begin searching and hoarding the best winter accessories out there and of course I will document my finds here. The search begins and could almost end with Yokoo as I buy everything in her etsy store.

P.S. - Judging by her latest collection I think we should petition for Sandra Buckland to try her hand and knitting needles at menswear.

Red Leopard

The red leopard print trousers and silver boots!

Daniel Jenkins on British Mens Fashion

We asked Daniel Jenkins if he would like to write a guest post for the blog and were surprised after he agreed without hesitation. He went away back to his store in Monmouth and wrote the post in secret (he didn't even give us any clues on the subject matter) and here it is. A recurrent theme on the blog in recent months has been the discussion on the rise of menswear but despite this rise there are still so much room for improvement. As a store owner Daniel Jenkins has a clear vision on menswear and the designers he wants to sell. As a passionate, intelligent chap he has insightful thoughts on the current state of men's fashion in Britian so here they are!

Posts from the last week or so have forced me to rethink what I was going to write about, particularly the Lulu Kennedy interview. Her comments regarding men’s fashion fascinated me. As someone who believes in British menswear to such an extent that my shop is only stocking British menswear labels from ss09 I have a slightly vested interest in what happens with regards to MAN and menswear during British fashion week. During fashion week this time around there was much talk of New York, Milan and Paris trying to expand their timetable. In order to facilitate such a change London Fashion Week would have to be truncated. Maurice Chittenden in The Times wrote that menswear was likely to be the main casualty, something that, if I was of a sensitive disposition, I might find deeply upsetting. However, it could be argued that British menswear, despite a lack of mainstream coverage, is currently stronger than womenswear. In spite of this when was the last time you read an intelligent and thought provoking piece on menswear in any of the mainstream newspapers? Unless it is about how to look as if you’ve surrendered your manhood. Some of the looks that are proposed as ideal for the chap about town would make you look as if you’ve fallen out of an advert for Next and been dressed by your partner – I remove Charlie Porter from this blame, who is perhaps the best men’s fashion journalist we have in the UK. Time and time again I have the same line fed to me that women buy clothes for their husbands, boyfriends and sons. I’m struggling to see the evidence for this. It’s certainly not the case in my store or online. In fact I did a quick straw poll amongst my girlfriend and her friends the other night. They agreed with me that they would rather cut their arms off than go shopping for the ‘other half’. Is this the case with you as well?

As I stated before, menswear is fairly healthy in the UK. Some of the UK’s best stores are purely menswear affairs... something that would have been unthinkable a decade ago. The British male has certainly become more savvy and demanding. Is it any surprise then that we lead the world in online retailers? Last week saw the launch of FarFetch, another British concept. In fact I sat down and thought about purely womenswear stores which offered the level and breadth of talent that some of the best men's stores do. I’m not talking about replicating Vogue and Elle but rather those that offered well made clothes sourced from small labels from around the world. Answers on a postcard please.

British Talent: Satyenkumar, Lou Dalton and Stanfeild.

Not all is peachy though. Of the men’s fashion weeks Paris has traditionally been where the most business is done. Almost all the British labels we deal with do large amounts of business when in Paris or perhaps in Copenhagen. As a store based in deepest darkest Wales – only 200 years from London - I could quite easily do all of my buying without ever setting foot in London... the creative capital of the world? This isn’t because of a paucity of talent. Some of the best and brightest men's talent, those that will last the course, are British. We have labels as diverse as Lou Dalton, Stansfield and Passarella Death Squad – a modern phenomenon if there ever was one - all of which are stocked in the best stores in America, Japan, Europe yet have small presence in this country. Why is this? I found the last MAN show interesting. I usually go to fashion shows alone so I enjoyed watching it with Steve and being able to pick his brain about the collections.

Ms Kennedy is right, there was a good balance – although wool in July is never going to be a winner - but three labels and Topman design does not a fashion week make. The idea of a men’s fashion week in London is something I don’t believe I’ll see in my lifetime. The menswear could presently be fitted into one day. What a fine day it would be, but, it’s not enough! The New Gen programme has worked well for womenswear and poses interesting questions about menswear. Far too many labels are allowed to gather a head of steam then left to crash. I understand the 'why should we help people?’ argument. No-one helps retailers etc but if we aren’t careful we will lose our brightest and best talent. Rachel Sanderson in the International Herald Tribune writes about the shift away from British manufacture, stating that labels have decided that being able to put 'made in Britain' no longer has the cache it used to and that the problems in the global economy force them to construct their garments elsewhere. This is something I often chat with customers about. Most are quite informed about where something comes from and we’ve found as a business that those labels that are made in the UK tend to do quite well for us. Satyenkumar is quite a good example. We’ve had a number of repeat customers who have commented on the fact that everything is British and made in the UK. The use of British fabric again is important.

If you missed the Tailoring show - go watch it on iplayer now!

This week the BBC’s British Style Genius series dealt with Tailoring. Within the show there was a brief segment that dealt with Burton. The creative director was at pains to mention several times that they were using British fabric for their ‘Heritage’ range. Unfortunately this is something that is unlikely to end up in Monmouth’s branch of Burton. They however do fabulous business in Mister Men t-shirts...

In France the FFC was set up not only to deal with the organisation for Paris Fashion week but also to protect the interests of French fashion. We have the BFC in this country that aims to do this. It’s created an interesting dialogue with the media regarding the size zero debate. Yet we hear very little from them about British menswear. I’ve certainly never spoken to anyone connected with the organisation. Of course there are organisations such as the CFE (Centre for Fashion Enterprise) which offer government backed help. but this only goes so far.

Jonathan Saunders in an interview with Style.com stated that he and the other stars of his generation quickly realised that you needed to work on collaborations and for other companies in order to further your own business. MAN does a wonderful job of bringing the industry together and celebrating menswear through the show and party, but there is only so much they can do. Once fashion week is over we seem to be left to our own devices. Constantly I hear that British Fashion is a multi billion dollar industry... given that according to Robert Peston of the BBC the world should end sometime next Tuesday shouldn’t we do something to make sure that we safeguard it?

In more trying and testing economic times the maxim was always that people dressed better, stopped buying disposable fashion and moved towards items which would last and wear well. This has always been our maxim. Trying to offer something a little different to the customer. Limiting the chance that they will see 5 men wearing the same outfit while out and about. This is what the British male who is interested in fashion strives for. Limited edition releases and hard to find products will always do well. Sir Paul Smith (my hero) summed it up quite nicely last night when dealt with the topic of other nations being better dressed than us Brits. He said “the Italians are extraordinarily well dressed. Yet there is very little individuality in the way they dress... In Britain we have our own character and we dress to fit our character.” British fashion is incredibly important. We created most of the prevailing trends of the last 200 years. Constantly we are at the forefront pushing new ideas without losing that sense of British identity in our cut and drape. Raf Simons – the nearest we currently have to a genius in men's fashion - is constantly influenced by British fashion and our youth culture. Wouldn’t it be a shame to lose that sense of craft in order to push fast celebrity fashion?

Bridal Asia 2008 - Day 2 Pictures