Early morning Truman Brewery...

Introducing Mitsu

Over the last few months I have heard murmuring of a new label that I was told I would love. On a number of different occasions both friends and colleagues excitedly mentioned the launch of Mitsu. As the debut offering lands in LN-CC, I share their excitement and happily introduce the brand to you.

Mitsuhiro Kokita graduated from Central Saint Martins with an MA in Menswear in 2004 and has since honed his design talent through working with the likes of Untitled Men, Ginza Ichibankan and most recently Comme des Garcons. Now, whilst working as a lecturer at Seian University of Art and Design he has launched his eponymous line, Mitsu. Here, he plays with dualities. It strives to blur distinctions of old and new, natural and synthetic, classic and modern. Before we learn more about the label itself, let me share a few of the first product shots with you...

Product shots courtesy of LN-CC

The starting point was a simple tie dyed Rock t shirt. With the help of a dying factory, Kokita experimented with various techniques of bleaching nylon and synthetics. During this period of tie dyeing trial and error, the design talent looked to reimagine familiar classics of menswear. Through the dying of synthetics and the enlargement of iconic detailing, Kokita breathes fresh life in to the trench coat, the pea coat, the hunting jacket and the rain cloak.

To mark the release of the first few products, we caught up with Mitsuhiro Kokita to learn more about the label and the man behind it all. Here we discuss the roots of Mitsu, his desire to create something new and his hopes for the future...

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind launching Mitsu?

Mitsu: Basically, I want to create things which excite people in the same way that I was excited by all fashion things since high school. Something which makes your life well is what I want to create. I still do not know how to make it under good balances. I do not know is it possible or not but I'll try. It is difficult to explain my inspirations, dream and etc. because I am still struggling with them. I love fashion and I just want to make fashion in my own way.

SS: Aside from it being your name, what does Mitsu mean to you?

Mitsu: I hope that someday MITSU will remind people of my clothes rather than myself.

SS: The starting point for the collection was the tie dye rock t shirt. How did the collection evolve out of this single garment?

Mitsu: The tie dye rock t shirt is made of cotton, a natural material and it is the inner garment. I wished to experiment with just tie dyed outer garment which are made of synthetic material. I am a bit perverse.

SS: Could you talk us through the process you devised for tie dying the synthetics?

Mitsu: I did not devise it. I just discovered it. It is just the result of a great deal of experimentation and with the informed help of the dying factory.

SS: The collection reimagines menswear classics and breathes fresh life in to vintage garments. Is there a moment or era of style that you are particularly drawn to?

Mitsu: The reason I am drawn to the classics is because that synthetic materials are not classic material. Synthetic material reminds me of sportswear. I just put the sport image to classics and vice versa. There is not a particular era, but I love photos. Like Yamamoto and many others, I just loves August Sander’s photos.

SS: Your design aesthetic is predominantly focused on the detail. What are the details that you wish more men gave more thought to?

Mitsu: I hope you get an atmosphere through details. Detail is detail. Detail is a very important aspect, though.

SS: What excites you about the future of menswear?

Mitsu: Menswear has some many rules. I would like to create a new rule.

SS: Finally, what's next for Mitsu? How would you like to see the label evolve over the coming seasons?

Mitsu: I just started my own brand. So now it’s a time to create a good infrastructure of the brand. I want to create an epoch –making design, but before that, I want to produce good products and continue my brand. If I continue my brand, someday I create what I want and also you want. I am doing things again and again until the day.

Out and about last Thursday evening...

If you follow the blog you may recognise this woman but still don't know her name? She looked great but was only play along if I photoghraphed her in this pose... She was the second woman to use this signal that night the other Blogger/DJ Bip Ling looking fab in this outfit >>>

Last week when the sun out...

Addorable couple...

Kabir had already left when I met this great couple and so stylish... Not sure what tribe they originate from must be some sort'a soulfull rockers...

Captains of Industry

Melbourne's Captains of Industry is the type of back lane tribute to gentlemanly living that I long to lose a few hours in. Now, if it hadn't been for Susie's recent trip down under, I would have absolutely no idea about its existence. Tucked away up a flight of stairs the collaborative space offers almost everything and anything a sartorially inclined man could ever need. An outfitter and cafe, the first floor space brings together three leaders from their respective fields under one roof. Thom Grogan offers a made to measure suit service whilst Steven Blick trims and wet-shaves from vintage barbers' chairs and James Roberts makes bespoke shoes by hand on site. It appears to be the perfect marriage of menswear and hospitality.

Thankfully for us, a camera wielding Susie decided to brave the staircase to become our roving reporter for the day. Her collection of excitedly snapped shots help bring to life her glowing tales of a wonderful concept of coffee, cut cloth and coiffed hair...

Thanks to Susie for all of the images.

Looking over these images now I can't help but question why London does not have anything quite like Captains of Industry. A place that can satisfy every one of my greedy demands. A place of toasted chorizo sandwiches, well cut suits, perfect flat whites, freshly cut hair, gin in tea cups, handmade brogues and so much more. I like the idea of investing an afternoon in such an inviting space. The last twelve months has seen a number of exciting menswear stores open their doors in our capital but this is something quite special indeed. Captains of Industry is a cafe centred style retreat I long to escape to.

Style Stalking... Brandon

It has been a few months since we last lurked in the shadows to partake in a spot of Style Stalking. This seven day diary style feature has become one of the most popular sections of the site and we are constantly on the search for a diverse mix of stylish individuals. After some fruitless outfit voyeurism, we can make up for the barren spell with a real treat. With the help of a few friends, Feigned Perfection's Brandon has captured a full week's worth of his layered ensembles for us to savour.

Brandon is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted outfits. He is someone who knows how to balance vintage, high street and a mix of labels (although, he is a self confessed Issey addict) in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops. Now, we could continue to wax lyrical about his style but that would only delay you from the real treat of the upcoming visuals. Without further ado, here's the man himself introducing his diary...

"I couldn't really write an introduction to my own Style Stalking feature, without saying how much of an honour it is to be asked to do this. The following seven days worth of clothing is a snapshot of the schizophrenia that is my style. If you've read my blog, or know me at all; you'll know that there are two things that define the way I present myself: messiness, and layering. I'm not sure if the extent of either of these really translates over the internet, but hopefully some of you won't walk away with the feeling you get after a really intense thrifting experience (I'm talking thrift by the lb. here people). Until doing this, I had no idea how much Issey Miyake and Issey-sub brands are in my regular rotation… I guess I have Issey issues. The good photos were taken by my friends, otherwise the photos were on my fire escape with my timer mode (so apologies for the lack of quality...)"

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Day One - Happy birthday to me!

"My birthday happened to be on a particularly bad week for me so I needed my clothing to bring me up to an appropriate level (or layer… ugh I know, bad) of good spirits. So in that regard, everything I wore was a little nugget of intrigue. From the weird and wrongly worn Undercover jumper (it's really a jumper with a tiny baby sweater going through the stomach. Yeah I told you it was wrong (so wrong it's right?)) to my Grandfathers tuxedo jacket (and Dad's handkerchief as a pocket square). It was also the first outing of my Issey Miyake "Vulcan Parachute" Trenchcoat. From the sci-fi techno fabric with pleated back and elbows, to the way it flies in the wind: this coat a great example of the futuristic vitality of Issey Miyake clothing."

Issey Miyake "Vulcan Parachute" trenchcoat, Grandfathers tuxedo jacket, Pleats Please yellow cardigan (worn upside down), Undercover "Toddler Attached" sweater (worn with my head through the bottom of the toddlers jumper (could this sound anymore f*cked up?), Ivan Grundhal tulle cardigan, Liberty London shirt, Haat printed green trousers, Alejandro Ingelmo Wooster boot/sneaker/wingtips, Issey Miyake organza bow tie, Vintage ugly duckling brooch, Dads handkerchief (pocket square) and Uniqlo socks

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Day Two - College Bored

"I find school can be quite trying for me, despite it being a "fashion" college my aesthetics in both design and choice of clothing tends to be misunderstood. I guess this is a good example of the strange way I think things can go together to make me feel powerful maybe? Definitely cosy and therefore at ease. The photos were taken by Wax of Pop, Bop and Snap, hence they're lovely."

Vintage fringe jacket from London, Opening Ceremony x Pendleton wool suit (with the jacket worn upside down), Ivan Grundhal deconstructed cotton/wool jacket, Haat asymmetric jumper, Kenzo printed shirt, SURevolution belt worn as necklace, Dr Martens metallic boots, Peter Pilotto x Kipling school bag, Ralph Lauren silk scarf wrapped around wrist and a nickel cuff from a friend

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Day Three - Typical Work Day

"Decided to do my version of minimalism today. I recently managed to get a large amount of Pleats Please (Yes I realize I sound a little like an Issey Miyake advertisement) for a song and the sculptural qualities continue to amaze me. This was my first top from the brand and I love the way it clings and bulges in seemingly random ways."

Pleats Please mid sleeve shirt, Paul Smith digital fishing print shirt, Zero + Maria Cornejo fold shorts, Issey Miyake APOC leggings and Alejandro Ingelmo sneakers

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Day Four - Style Like U Book Launch

"Well what can I say? My friends at Style Like U have been working towards this book for a long time, and I was happy. 'nuff said…"

Issey Miyake "future rainforest" biker jacket (The design team traveled to Brazil for this collection and collected actual colour samples as close to real rainforest colours as possible!), Great Grandfathers waistcoat (worn inside out because I think the shredding aging lining is beautiful), Thrifted sheer sweatshirt, Club Monaco floral shirt, Thrifted saturated print skirt, Issey Miyake Fete triangle pleats trousers, Alejandro Ingelmo Woosters, Traditional Mexican scarf, Paul Smith x Lola raffia brooch, Vintage elephant necklace, Rope bracelet from The Brooklyn Flea, same RL scarf and cuff as before and a vintage bag also from The Brooklyn Flea

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Day Five - Another School Day

"Ok so this is a very heavy outfit. Heavy on the heavy, heavy on the earthy warm colours and heavy on the Haat (yes another Issey brand...)."

Issey Miyake APOC cutout jacket, Thrifted Ports 1961 red mohair jacket, Haat african textile dress worn as a jumper, +J blue shirt, Haat folder trousers, well loved Chucks, Haat necklace, Charity Shop tie

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Day Six - Upstate Excursion

"Another outing for one of my favorite jackets, visiting the real world of Upstate New York. Wore a hoodie to fit in more… This is my version of practicality: Boots, shorts 'n leggings (for movement), flannel, you get the picture. The photos were taken by my friend Autumn Seguin of The Memory Mine."

Issey Miyake APOC cutout jacket, Random hoodie, Uniqlo flannel shirt, Uniqlo Henley, Zero + Maria Corenjo fold shorts, +J leggings, Yohji Yamamoto x Dr Martens, Vintage Dooney & Bourke bag

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Day Seven - Supermarket Sweeper

"Yes. This really is what I wear to grocery shop."

Cos zipper sweater, Richard Chai cashmere sweater, Thrifted flannel shirt, Haat skirt, Thrifted Laura Ashley skirt, Margiela sneaker sandals, Pierre-Louis Mascia scarf, Guatemalan cross-body bag.

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More black on Redchurch St, E2...

Funny story, she agreed to be photoed but it was a very tight spot so I asked her to pass everything she was carrying... iPhone wallet, lunch and a coffee... And as I darted across the street to find a good place to put her thing's down she had a mini panic attack saying "I hope that this is not a trick and your going to run off?"...

Fashion note: Jump-suit's in drape'y fabrics, working well for day-to-evening, looking younger, seeming more play-full then skirts or a summer dress...

Nice booty's, lot's of zip's... the sunnies Tom Ford...