Thursday, June 30, 2011

Summer Sophistication...

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Modern, Fresh, Neat and Sexy Shorts... Love her look
PS: Nice watch but what sunnies should she wear?

Today should be at Old Spitalfields Market... But

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my garden is hard to leave in summer... Last week at the market...

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

He looked gorgous...

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And he seemed flattered but pretended to be coy, when I told him he reminded me of someone back in the 1970's. A guy who told us funny stories of his hustler lifestyle, which involved making the acquaintance of rich old queens who liked glamorous Malaysian/Asian Boys boy(s) at Napoleon's just off Bond St. The club throw-back to the days of Chipps Channon and James Lees-Milne.. The cool people who were into music went to Monkberry’s on Jermyn Street and The Great American Disaster for a burger after club. Both I think may have been owned by Peter Morton... In the days before the Blitz and Zanzibar opened on Gt. Queen St. But then some fashion/arts queens slummed it while looking for rough trade at Shaggeramers…. Anyone out there know Kim Hunt, Francesco Oddie of Islington or Tony Meed of a village called Flitewick? (it was the name on the train station sign at the Blitz owned by Mike Brown)
His clutch: LV
Bag: Miu Miu

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Woooyoungmi SS12

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It has been a couple of days since my whistle-stop weekend tour of Paris menswear fashion week and as temperatures soared, I needed this time to take stock off all that I had encountered. Despite focusing most of my attention on tradeshow and showroom visits, I was fortunate enough to take my seat at one of the real highlight shows of the season so far, Woooyoungmi. Now, we have long admired how this label's garments are streamlined and enriched with details and styled finishes but for SS12 vibrant colour and print are added. This heady mix provided a most agreeable summer friendly cocktail.

Here, Woooyoungmi continued along its path of quiet revolution, as it looked to reinvent the wardrobe for men without frightening them but introduced dazzling colour and prints for the first time. The bright orange, lemon sorbet, acid yellow and watermelon green palette was certainly a surprise. It might have whisked me back to the gelato cabinet of my favourite ice cream parlour Morellis, but these bright hues were equally at home within this holiday wardrobe. Like most of us do when the warmer months approach, Wooyoungmi and her sister Woojanghee looked to the film The Talented Mr Ripley for inspiration. However, here they take the traditionally stylish wardrobes of the Minghella masterpiece and inject a dash of modern quirkiness to help create their sophisticated resort wear and undoutedly injected more energy in to the season.

A raffia theme runs throughout, visors, bags and tops in the fabric capture a playfulness that is offset by the sophistication of relaxed tailoring. By embracing unique prints for the first time and experimenting with elements of active wear. a graphic edge is added to the easy silhouette. Furthermore, accessories highlight the easy summer mood with bags that are designed to be strapped across the back or worn around the waist for leisure time. Hats and visors keep the sun off the face and jelly soles bring freshness to more altogether classic shoe styles.

The now signature Woooyoungmi detailing was evident throughout, if just with a little more subtlety than in previous season. This blogger excitedly snapped away as the models paraded down the runway and captured just a selection of the them. Now, gorge on the detail... 

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Now, if you need to see more of the collection than my excitedly snapped detail shots allow then please do watch the video show below.


Details: The familiar fox in Paris

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The striding fox has been featured on the E. Tautz logo since its founding in 1876 and echoes the label's rich hunting and sportswear heritage. It was a familiar sight during my weekend in Paris as these fabulous silver pins were handed out to visitors at the London Showroom Men. Here, one member of the BFC team wears it very well indeed.

Enjoying Londons great weather...Feels Like the West Coast but LDN

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Monday, June 27, 2011

Bermonsey, London...

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Seemed genuinely surprised I would want to take her pic...
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I met this woman on the grounds of Guy's Hospital... When I was a toddler a little older than Tuc's my parents and I took a very small two room flat in the Guinness Buildings on Pages Walk, just off the Old Kent Road in Bermondsey. Built around the 1890’s the estate was made up of three blocks, which comprised 600 dwellings divided by large yards where children ran around and played.

In 1960 residents were moved to other estates so that electricity could be installed... When I watch old Brit movies of the time they look a little depressing almost seedy, one every one likes is Blow Up >>>

Friday, June 24, 2011

Urban Rustic Girl...

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Love this location which look's like a side-street in a West Country market town... as the house behind seems to keep chickens in front and only 2 min walk from the Israeli Embassy in London >>>

Baartmans and Siegel SS12: Dust Drifters

The moment we excitedly showcased the degree collections of the Dutch/English design halves that make up Baartmans and Siegel we knew we had discovered a couple of gems. The design duo first met whilst at Viktor & Rolf, and were united in their belief of beautiful craftsmanship and imaginative design. The resulting label instantly became one to watch, recognisable by the pairs use of interactive texture and sharp tailoring. In a few short seasons, they've become synonymous with interesting details and menacing masculinity winning fans and plaudits alike. Now, as they prepare their Paris showroom, we can provide the first look at their impressive SS12 collection, Dust Drifters.

Now, the design duo tend to start at more of a thematic start point, with a character created and established in popular culture, for example the Jules Verne SS11 collection and most recently the Blade Runner inspired Deckard collection for AW11. However, this season they've looked at a more tangible, imaginary character, that of a modern nomadic man. A reflective nature and nod to romanced exploration and travel. A character conjured from the dust, and one that belongs to multiple landscapes. Before we take a look at the collection itself, Amber Siegel introduces and shares their visual references.. 

"For the SS12 collection we wished to look at the idea of a person connecting with a remote, powerful landscape, which they are reborn from. A mutual connection between man and landscape. The collection reflects this simplistic harmony. Accessible yet alters one's sense of self. We were looking at a sort of nomadic soul and atmosphere, and the deserts of Egypt and North America."
Amber Siegel on the inspiration for SS12

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A look at their SS12 mood boards.

For SS12, Baartmans and Siegel look at the creation of a character derived from an arid landscape. A character that has risen and been re-absorbed by a transitory and harsh atmosphere. They continue to look at a classic, internally generated masculinity, one which travels to an outward, defined aesthetic of individual aspects, particles, fibres, grouping together to form a unity. Dust Drifters concentrates on the unity of physical representation of man and the unseen, silent insertion into an isolated natural landscape. This sedimentary building of character is literally translated and represented through the use of defined stripes. Washed out, frayed, fine cotton shirts draw inspiration from the sun-fired Arabian terrains. While crème silk crepe shirts provide a nomadic flexibility of comfort, style and functionality.

Throughout, the design duo showcase their characteristically refined, classic cuts, and have developed charmingly nostalgic slim fit pure wool and soft Irish linen suits, which are well suited for the modern traveller. Fine silk-ribbed shirts with flashes of gold hardware explore indulgence and luxury, while one can find comfort and confidence in hand-knitted Breton striped and cable-knit glace cotton sweaters...

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 SS12 lookbook images courtesy of Baartmans and Siegel

Self described as modern-traditionalists, Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel’s work focuses on beautiful fabrics that seduce, and shapes that are accessible yet distinctive.  Key items that instantly catch the eye include beautiful, lightweight organza linen shirt-jackets with a Nile-like sheen: perfect breeze-catchers. Water-resistant taupe trenches with butter nappa leather collars and polished horn buttons that provide pure masculine allure.  Whilst Irish linen summer parkas ensure shelter and protection, with leather visor details.
  

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The latest fruits from the collaboration with Grenson.

Furthermore, Dust Drifters marks the continuation of their fruitful collaboration with renowned English shoemakers Grenson by presenting a new shape in two very contrasting styles presenting. The ‘Classic Gentlemen’s Brogue’ in chestnut suede and leather and the ‘Classic Raider Brogue’ in sandstone suede. Streamlined, simplistic, comfortable and classic. As they grow as a brand, Baartmans and Siegel will continue to develop their range of shoes with Grenson. For winter they are already looking to produce a beautiful loafer, boot and town shoe, which shall include fabric as well as leather. I look forward to watching the continued rise of this design duo but first, I will toast their stunning SS12 collection in Paris.

Loves shoes...

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Bracing oneself for SS12 with 10A

We have long declared that the real beauty of menswear is in the details and 10A is a line that reacquaints us with that often overlooked detail, braces. The chaps over at Street Etiquette have recently posted about this stylish alternative to a belt but I've been contemplating braces ever since I first encountered 10a at Pitti this time last year. I then pinged the label once again for AW11. One season on and the label has deservedly been awarded a Special Mention at Who is On Next? by Pitti, Altaroma and Vogue. What I love about this label is that, when creating each item the design duo focus on creating it slow and well. They cannot and should not be rushed and the end results are always something to savour. 

In 2008, 10A created only ten pairs of trousers each month, on request of the pairs friends and through word of mouth. After two years, the success verified the brand, Daria and Matteo then decided to produce a collection of trousers in six sizes. 10A was born. Following a long search to sharpen the quality of the details, the refinement of the materials and the formal, a union between classic taste of the brace and the contemporary style of the trouser. With each passing season, the design duo build on the strengths of previous seasons and now offer a more complete contemporary interpretation of classic styles. For SS12, Dazzan and Cibis present eight outfits that mix classic tailor patterns with high security oil workwear uniforms and showcase colour blocking inspired by the colour and rhythm of the world's flags. Here, 10A reflect on the meaning of national identity. Bold and vibrant the colours may be, but thankfully this is a collection more akin to Jil Sander than the opening ceremony of the Olympics...although, there is a little flag waving in the below look book...

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SS12 lookbook courtesy of 10A.

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