Esteemed Journalists: Old and New Media...plus the TUC's

@asvof

The TUC's

As The TUC's third LFW come's to an end, it may be his last for a while. He's started running, making it harder to keep him safe and get my work done. When he was smaller, all bundled and strapped into his buggy it was much easier...

Sibling AW11 Darn The Boozer

 

For their sixth collection, the ever bold and progressive knitwear label Sibling take us on a knitted pub crawl around East London as they invite us "darn the boozer". After all moving to the area, the design trio looked to the The Golden Heart, The Bricklayer's Arms, The Red Lion and the George & Dragon to quench their thirst for inspiration. During the presentation in Somerset House's Portico Rooms during Menswear Day, I was soon inebriated by the cocktail of texture, pattern and stitch as I stumbled through the design trio's favourite local drinking holes.

Throughout the collection their favoured drinking dens are referenced both in a literal sense with the use of pub insignia and iconography embroidered in and also in a more abstract way in pieces which reference George and in others which reference the dragon. Like all good pub crawls this is something of a drunken haze but I'm pretty sure pandas featured in it along the way.  I can remember the first intoxicating yarn pint being downed at The Golden Heart, in a crew neck featuring text, embroidered tattooed heart and spider web elbows, with a chaser of a Claddagh fisherman’s sweater in a heady cashmere mix. Moving on to The Bricklayer's Arms in an insignia zip up jacket before roaring through to The Red Lion in an aptly addorned sweater. I think we finished up at the George & Dragon in a fair isle knitted in Scotland featuring Saint George, crossed cigarettes and dragons.

With each collection, the design trio combine the wonderful craft of knitwear with an added sense of humour. In fact, when we interviewed them last year  they conceded that "Sibling is all about humour in a very English way that may come across as being a bit silly at times." Here however, they have struck the perfect balance and created a collection of covetable designs that still produce a wry smile. To supplement my drunken presentation shots, I can happily share the collection look book as shot by Thomas Giddings... 

Red Lion Crew.

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Golden Heart Twinset. 

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Bricklayers Arms Knitted Zip Jacket in 100% wool

George & Dragon Fair Isle Twinset complete with crossed cigarettes, beer bottles and not forgetting either George or the dragon. 100% wool.

Hand Knit Gorget & Army All In One Long. 

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Fox Cable Hooded Scarf, Hauberk Hand Knit Zip Jacket & Army All In One Long. 

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Pauldron Knitted Coat & George Army All In One. 100% Merino Wool.

Hauberk Hand Knit Zip Jacket. 

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Dragon Stitch Crew in 100% Merino Wool.

Pure Evil Pandas Rock! Crew in 100% Merino Wool.

The Boxer & Mr. Beefcake....

I think he told me he worked in construction but I predict central-casting
will need him if they ever do a British re-make of "On the Waterfront".... Below had a great laugh...

JULIA STEGNER INTERVIEW

JULIA STEGNER GERMAN MODEL

Name : Julia Stegner
Born : November 2, 1984
Country : born in Munich, Germany
Lives : Germany

Julia Stegner is one of the new Fashion models, who are becoming more and more popular recently. Stegner is a famous German model and was born on November 2, 1984, in Munich, Germany. Julia has got a sister.

The start or the fashion model is considered to be already in her childhood, when Julia became the kid model for different commercials and children's catalogs. She was discovered during her high school times in the world famous Oktoberfest, when she was just 15 years old.

After graduating high school Julia Stegner started a serious modeling career in Paris in the year 2002 and started appearing on many fashion magazine covers (Elle, Vogue, Madame) and in fashion shows, such as Dolce & Gabbana, Yves Saint Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Versace. A very successful project for Julia is said to be the shoots for the famous Pirelli calendar in 2005.

Wearing Victor and Rolf...

If I remember correctly...

Color Notes....

To Confirm, see: photo of Jennifer Roberts running a few images below or >>>

Tim Soar AW11 Him/She

During a day that saw me ricochet from Somerset House to the Royal Opera House and back again multiple times, the opportunity to stand still and admire was greatly appreciated. One such opportunity was afforded by Tim Soar's presentation in the Navy Board Rooms. Here, weary menswear folk gathered with a glass of champagne to gleefully toast the continued rise of the designer whilst admiring his collection of androgyny grounded in menswear.

For the last few seasons Soar has busied himself with examining and reinterpreting the true classics of menswear. Appropriating hits and remixing them to his own tune to much acclaim. He has ultimately produced collections which feel warm and familiar, those which have many overlapping memories and echoes from the past yet, at the same time still feel modern. Thankfully, this is a process that he continues for AW11. However, this time, he offers a carefully crafted concept of a functional wardrobe where many of the styles are available for women. Despite being grounded in menswear, the collection is as much for women as it is for men. Soar has managed to strike a perfect balance between menswear and womenswear or masculine and feminine. Both sexes are happy and well dressed as they nod along to Soar's tune. The focus is on making each piece desirable in its own right, regardless of gender. It was a pleasure to examine them up close as I walked around the presentation of faceless mannequins clad in the designer's signature mix of tailoring and sportswear...

For Him, Soar is interested in the point where tailoring and sportswear meet. The apex of good menswear. Here, he reveals Velcro waistband tuxedo pants, the zip hood duffle coat (a collaboration with noted London tailor, Joe Allen), the neoprene Harrington jacket and the striped, coated cotton dress shirts. Knitwear is either heavy with zips or latex coated. There are tailored ski panes and lacquered wools. However,the real highlight is the topcoat and its mix of heavy melton with bonded cotton sleeves. For She, Soar has kept the masculine mood of the collection. Each piece has started in menswear and delicately evolved. In fact, as I walked through the presentation, many of the style looked almost identical to the equivalent men's garments; the topcoats, jackets, trousers and knits. However, great care has been taken to ensure a fit that is flattering, chic, feminine.

The most obvious thread that tightly bonds this collection is the use of the classic fabrics of menswear which are used throughout. Soar is a long time collector of vintage military and has always loved the density, texture and strength of the wools used in British Army Dress uniforms. When he found out that Hainsworth was the company that produces many of these wold, he just had to work with them. In fact, Hainsworth is a specialist textile company that has been an unrivaled market leader for over two hundred and twenty five years, kitting out the Royal Guards uniform to the plush interiors at Windsor Castle. In choosing a palette of RAF blue-grey, Rifle Green and Khaki, Soar managed to paint a collection that felt simultaneously modern and classic. While, bonded and coated cottons, neoprenes, spun Fuji silk, double crepes and Japanese Plange leather carry on Soar's design signature mix of minimalism, sportswear, tailoring and unusual fabrications.

In light of the packed presentation space I was only able to shoot a few close ups but thankfully, Soar sent through his recently shot look book which I'm pleased to share with you...

Lookbook images supplied by Tim Soar. Styling by Jodie Barnes.

Over the last few seasons, we have come to Tim Soar's collections as offering his take on the greatest hits of menswear. It is not about the exploration of a unique silhouette for the season and then moving on but rather, it concentrates on taking different elements and putting them together in a way that is a coherent whole while exploring a number of different references. In an interview with us last season, he declared that "you don't have to reinvent the wheel, especially not with menswear. The wheel exists, we just have to polish the spokes." Now, women can finally ride Tim Soar's well polished bicycle of menswear.

ANDREI CLAUDE ACTOR AND MODEL VIDEO

ANDREI CLAUDE

Andrei Claude, born in 1979, on an island which is just off the coast of Italy in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, is an Italian model and actor who began modeling professionally in 2001 and was primarily based in California.
In 2005, Claude's manager introduced him to the fascinating world of romance novels and in his first attempt was crowned "Mr. Romance" that same year. He was the youngest and only European to ever take the title.

Claude's versatility while shooting book covers was brought to the attention of film makers and within less than a year in the industry Andrei was already being cast in various independent films and shorts, mostly centered in New York.

Night Shoot... Black and Wht worked best....

Because I took these photos a few hour's ago and have to wonder if anyone I photographed is still out?

In the same vibe...

The leather work done by the subject...