Thursday, April 21, 2011

The Documentary And A Dream SS11

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As previously noted, J. LIndeberg's The Documentary and A Dream biannual book was borne out of the desire to tell the complete story of the brand and share their thoughts and values on a level beyond commercial aspects of marketing principles. Each season creatives from various disciplines are invited to freely interpret the seasonal collection and capture a particular theme within the spirit of J. Lindeberg. Now in its fourth season, the SS11 edition explores the passion to master a craft, be it creating an exquisitely cut suit, building the ultimate surfboard or focusing to become the number one athlete.

The talented group of photographers, artists, writers, illustrators and stylists that joined Art Director  Jörgen Ringstrand for this season include Olivier Zahhm, Andreas Sjödin, Julia and Hannes Hetta, Skye Parrot, Carl-Johan Paulin and Andreas Carlsbecker to name but a few. On the day of its release and before J. Lindeberg's London showroom opened its doors for a celebratory launch, we caught up with Jörgen Ringstrand to talk about the inception and continued evolution of this inspiring read...

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind launching The Documentary and A Dream?
Jörgen Ringstrand: I work with J.Lindeberg and also run my creative agency R67Kreative, it was a fantastic moment when together with the Global Brand Director at J.Lindeberg, Stefan Engström ,we decided to start the process of creating the Biannual Book. When we started we did not know where we were heading, both Stefan and I like to work very fast and are passionate about what we do. There were no customers surveys or meetings with marketing departments, we both love books that are made with passion, love, great printing, great binding and great contributors. We just wanted to do something that reflects our minds and the world of J.Lindeberg.

SS: For me, it is a publication which weaves together people, imagery, history, newness and takes great pleasure in information exchange and learning. What does The Documentary and A Dream mean to J Lindeberg and to you personally?
Jörgen Ringstrand: For me it’s a fantastic way of together, with Stefan Engström at J.Lindeberg, to create a book with people and thoughts that inspire us. Both of us love books and with the Biannual Book we also produce it with highest quality and craftsmanship. All the bookbinding is made by hand, it’s a privilege in this time to do a book like this, especially with people focusing online or digitally. For J.Lindeberg it is a way of doing something that shows the world around the brand. The book is not made with any business or commercial goals in mind but made from a strong interest of creating a long lasting high quality product, much like the J.Lindeberg clothes.

SS: Each issue is concentrated around one key idea – a timeless theme that in various ways touches all those working in the creative fields regardless of age, cultural background or social status. This latest issue explores the world of craftsmanship and you shine the spotlight on varied individuals from an aged surfer to a jazz musician, a Russian poet to a tailor. What does the word craftsmanship mean to you?
Jörgen Ringstrand: It is someone who lives through their work.

SS: Could you talk us through a few of your favourite features within the issue and the stories behind them?
Jörgen Ringstrand: All are my favourite, I have put a lot of effort into them all for them to become true.

SS: Is there anything that you are particularly pleased with or excited to show?
Jörgen Ringstrand: I think it’s nice to have Olivier on board and he will also contribute on the next with a great feature we are working on right now.

SS: The contributors list is an impressive one, Olivier Zahm, Andreas Sjödin, Julia Hetta to name but a few. How do you source people to become involved in the project? What is the dynamic of the working relationship with them?
Jörgen Ringstrand:Most of the people I have followed for sometime time and seen their work and way of visualizing things. I contact then with some ideas and then we together we work out the final story. Most of the work we do is over emails which I love. I love to have that exchange of ideas and thoughts before we meet in person.

SS: In terms of contributors, is there anyone in particular that you'd like to work with the future?
Jörgen Ringstrand: I don’t really plan like that, I haven’t got anyone in mind that I am trying to catch. It is something that happens more organically

SS: Finally, how would you like to see The Documentary and a dream evolve over the coming seasons?
Jörgen Ringstrand: I would like it to be a book which reflects the mood and minds of the people involved. A book that gives creative freedom to the contributors in a large sized format, made with passion and love, to be able show their work in a great context.
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Now that the hangover sets in and memories of toasting the book thump around my brain, I'm fully aware that the book has now been released. This fourth edition is now available to view at J. Lindeberg stores and online. The narrative it weaves is one that expands way beyond the realms of the standard look book and runway views we are all accustomed to seeing. Throughout the book you are treated to inspiring art works, collages, interviews and an array of wonderful imagery. However, before you go and thumb through it I'd like to share a few of my favourite pages with you.  

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All book images courtesy of J. Lindeberg.

More from Men's Day... LFW 2011

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Wednesday, April 20, 2011

West Norwood, LDN

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Student who lives around our way and, who always styles and dress in a cool way...

Monday, April 18, 2011

In discussions: Unsung designers continued

Earlier this month, we started the conversation around the great unsung of menswear design. Our aim for this month's topic is to afford a little attention to the oft over looked and forgotten designers and labels. The discussion was launched with the help of the insight of Dal Chodha, Dapper Kid and The Dandy Project. Their recommendations led to Giancinephile bringing Jean-Paul Knott and Young Chong Bak to our attention in the comments box. At Cerruti and Smalto respectively, these two talents are guided by values of the past to create modern classic menswear that particular resonates with this lover of romanticism. Then, 1972 reminded us of a band of second time round designers including Matteo Bigliardi and Kostas Murkudis. Prime examples of designers who burst onto the scene tears ago with stunning collections, then went quiet and resurfaced recently with further attention. Here, we continue the conversation with the thoughts of the ever opinionated Daniel Jenkins...

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Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?
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"I have written and rewritten my answer to this question several times this afternoon. At one point we were looking at 1500 words. Unsurprisingly this is a topic I have quite strong opinions on.

Underrated is an interesting term. Sometimes something seen as underrated is simply unknown or as is unfortunately more often the case in fashion, underrated labels are often those unwilling to play the game which many of us subscribe to.

Frankly I like clothes. Some of it is trend led, some is me trying to be as obstinate as possible but, the majority of those items/labels that receive my patronage do so because when I pop on one of their garments I have a smile on my face and feel like I could take on the world.

The above mantra is what I applied when answering the question posed. Therefore it’s past and present mixed up.

The Hardwear Clothing Company. This was a British label from the late 70’s/80’s. Very under the radar but, has hugely influenced the likes of Nigel Cabourn. Their Grey Suede M65 is by far the best and most luxurious take on the M65 I’ve seen and the Flight jacket is next level. Almost impossible to get hold of now. The pieces I’m fortunate to have are being saved for when I have a son.

Early Duffer including the people and store. Without them I’m pretty sure we wouldn’t be sat here discussing what was under or overrated. I have so much respect for the guys involved and find it astonishing how one company spawned so many other labels. Duffer links in nicely to 6876 and Stansfield. Both labels are fairly well known but, create items that far outstrip many of their competitors. Kenneth and Dom are always worth having a cup of tea with as well.

Martine Rose. Firstly I should admit I think Martine is one of the nicest people in the industry. Her shirting makes me smile. It’s fun, sexy and interesting. Each time I wear one of her shirts people comment. Sometimes bad – philistines – mostly good. No-one else is really trying to do what she does.

Satyenkumar has always got me going. Whether it is the dyed black marcella and silk jacket worn over the panel sweat or his sharp highly structured tailoring which sits as on the shoulders as if construction is a dirty word. Incredible attention to detail, the best fabrics and slightly challenging shapes. Nothing else looks quite like it. Yet it works best mixed up with a bit of slightly baggier worn in clothing. I still remember the first time I saw his work and thought this is it. This has the potential to change things."
Daniel Jenkins, Retailer
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Who are your unsung designer heroes? Do let us know below...

Channeling Annie Hall...

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When I first approached this couple I said that I thought they the were channeling the movie Annie Hall and she was delighted at the comparison until I mentioned his nerd glasses and plaid shirt when she objecting saying "NO, he's so cute" as she stepped back to admire her man.... He was a sweet guy, both very nice...
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Saturday, April 16, 2011

Time to Slack

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T&F Slack's five eyelet Derby used by Matthew Miller during Menswear Day.

Over the course of the last few months I have found myself admiring a kaleidoscope of brogues and derby shoes but have failed to note down the name of their maker. Blog readers, I have failed you but I will now make amends. The first time I came across the brand, T&F Slack Shoemakers was during the most recent, hectic Menswear Day as Matthew Miller collaborated with the Notting Hill based shoemaker to stunning effect. Now, I really should have followed up with the brand the moment my heart returned to its natural beat after the strain of fashion month but the name was lost somewhere in the deepest, darkest corner of my blogging mind. More recently I have seen the designs on the shop floor at both Selfridges and Liberty's and the final nudge to feature the SS11 collection came from Kuni Awai, who is undertaking an ongoing collaboration with the label. No more slacking on this brand.

Now, to the best of my knowledge, T&F Slack Shoemakers is the only shoe brand able to offer classic English styles made in the heart of Notting Hill. In a bit to revive shoe manufacturing in London, the brand began crafting shoes in their own five hundred square foot factory in  March 2008. Today, they make about one hundred and fifty pairs per month.  For SS11, the collection consists of an impressive array of vibrant Derby with two sole options, either colourful lightweight micro soles or stitched leather soles, Oxford Brogues fit for any playful Sunday Best outfit, loafers and even a punch Derby for an extra statement of lively intent. All are perfect to add a splash of vibrant colour to an outfit. I am reminded of a famous Matisse quote, "With colour one obtains an energy that seems to stem from witchcraft."  There is certainly some truth in this observation from the great master. Even if the weather is dark and gloomy, wearing colour rather than blending in with the clouds is much better. Escapism even. A splash of colour can really help lift your mood so why not start with your feet?

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Oxford Brogue

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 Derby Five

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 Punch Derby

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Derby Two.

Over the course of the coming weeks I will certainly pay a visit to T and F Slack's Notting Hill shop where in addition to showcasing their fine collection of men and women's crafted English styles, they offer a unique made to order offering. The service takes up to three weeks and designs are available in a wide range of colours and materials. Their highly skilled craftspeople, both within their Notting Hill factory and East London workshop keep the art of British shoemaking alive and well in London and I cannot wait to pay them a visit.

Blk & Wht.... last Feb

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Wearing John Rocha....

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