Monday, August 16, 2010

Eye on Goodwood

I had been debating whether or not book a whole weekend of fun and frolics at Vintage at Goodwood for the last few months so when myself and Susie were offered a day ticket by the British Fashion Council we jumped on to the coach. For those of you unfamiliar with the festival, it is fresh to the ever growing summer circuit and combines art, music, fashion and film while celebrating Britain of the 1940s, 50s, 60s, 70s and 80s. We accepted the trip to add support behind London's New Gen finest at a special show entitled 'Future Vintage' - the collectibles of the future that include Louise Gray, Holly Fulton, Michael van der Ham, Mary Katrantzou and David Koma. As expected there were school trip style japes throughout the day with London's emerging talent but there was plenty of time to explore the vintage space and ample opportunity to partake in our favourite pastimes, people watching.

It was quite fascinating observing the crowds diverse interpretation of vintage and to see how that filtered down in to their choice of attire for the day. Rather than become bewildered by the ensembles I chose to focus on the details. Below are a few that caught my eye...













J. Lindeberg SS11 - The Modern North

The Modern North.

For SS11, J.Lindeberg continue its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a Scandinavian point of view. By respecting old traditions and combing them with the technical advancements of today, Pierangelo D'Agostin's sophomore collection is one of pieces that you wish had been hanging in your wardrobe for years. I first encountered the collection's mix of lightweight functionality and elegance when the look book images dropped in my inbox at the tail end of last month. Ever since then I've been eager to get my hands on the collection and last Friday I got my chance. Before I pick out the key pieces and look at the highlights in more detail, I think it best to take another glance through the look book to help see what my fuss was all about...







"It’s about elegance with a new attitude, we provide the components for you to put together and create your individual point of view"
Artistic Director, Pierangelo D’Agostin.

For inspiration, D'Agostin looks to the ever growing population of urban cyclists of our city landscapes as he revisits not only the aesthetics, but also the purpose, and functionality of a garment. Each garment has been shaped and further developed with technical fabric mixes and
advanced construction methods. Fast becoming the chosen form of city transport for the modern and aware man, cycling, and the function found in utility clothing, evolved from a specific purpose. J. Lindeberg’s focus is to adapt these concepts and apply them to fulfill the demands of the modern world.

A rail of covetable pieces.

Ultimately more relaxed and stripped down to its bare essentials, utility outerwear is reworked to ensure that it is ready for the modern day, urban challenges. Since its very first collection in 1997, J. Lindeberg has successfully combined fashion with sportswear yet it is really under Pierangelo D'Agostin's design stewardship over the last two season that have since the brand grow in to a covetable label. J. Lindeberg is once again embracing its Scandinavian roots and there's an Italian at the helm to thank for it.

The knit in the centre is unbelievable thin yet retains the appearance of a thick cricket jumper.

We all know that the Spring/Summer months can throw up all kinds of challenges and here aviator inspired hoods and military patchwork detailing provide protection. Contrasting patterns enhance shirts and pixelated army prints provide urban camouflage, while trousers are cropped or worn rolled up to offer technical elegance whatever the weather. As an accolade to the cyclist, the ‘Dreyden’ blazer has been created to include technical mesh membrane to evaporate moisture, 4 way stretch for movement and a reflective collar.

A closer look at the Dreyden blazer's collar. Notice the reflective strip.

Reflective turnups.

In a recent interview with Dazed & Confused, D'Agostin mentioned the importance of collaborating with his tailor, Eugenio and revealed one of his guiding statements... 'Perfection doesn't exist. If you find it you are lost. If you are convinced of having found it, it's time to change your job.' SS11 might not be perfection but it cannot be far off. Proportions are streamlined, shortened and tailored closer to the body. Innovative Japanese fabrics are bonded together, constructed with taped seams and ready to perform.

One of the highlight jackets, this is ideal protection from Spring downpours.

I love the fabrics D'Agostin has sourced, this chambray shirt utilises two of them.

The coastline of Scandinavia provides the colour palette; soft and neutral tones of wet sand, fresh white surf and deep marine blues provide a backdrop for the vibrant oranges and corals found on the town houses of Stockholm. The accessories offering has grown considerably this season. Contrasting printed scarves of silk and cashmere in vintage patterns caught my eye in particular as did the brushed suede shoes...

Just look at the combination of fabrics and textures in this look. The moment I saw it, I envisioned spotting it at Pitti Uomo SS12.

A close up of the silk handkerchief in action.

A flash of vintage inspired luxury.

And another...

Even the ties had the most fabulous vintage prints.

This look encapsulates the collection wonderful, well tailored utility clothing for the warmer months.

Ever the shoeist, these brushed suede shoes held my gaze for some time.

Having been soaked a number times in the last few weeks a significant part of me wishes I had the type of lightweight protection afforded by this collection. I live and learn.

Hackney: Colour can be fun...

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Saturday, August 14, 2010

RED,WHITE AND BLUE CARPET






by darrell hartman

The Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute benefit was all about stateside roots this year, celebrating as it did the opening of American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity. Proceedings inside had a turn-of-the-century feel, with wicker chairs at the dinner tables and a hot-air balloon inspired by one from the 1893 Chicago World's Fair looming over the Great Hall.

Appropriately, the first guest off the starting line was NASCAR driver Jeff Gordon. He was followed by co-chair Anna Wintour, who arrived in a gown designed for her by Karl Lagerfeld. "He's the master, so whatever he says, I obey," the Vogue editor in chief said. Influential types have also been known to have that kind of relationship with Oprah Winfrey, who came in soon after Wintour and issued a gentle commandment of her own: "I want everybody to not just look at the glamour of this evening, but to actually come to the exhibit."

America's favorite TV host had done the glamour part too, of course—with help from Oscar de la Renta. As her friend Gayle King noted, this was one night where "the last person she needs fashion advice from is me." With Gap's Patrick Robinson serving as Winfrey's fellow co-chair, the fashion world's biggest party (following 2008 and 2009 editions celebrating superheroes and supermodels) seemed to be making a symbolic nod toward Main Street.

Needless to say, Joe and Jane Six-Pack weren't ascending the red-carpeted steps, which soon became the sort of scene your Kristen Bells and Chloë Sevignys could slip through almost completely unnoticed as the likes of Bono, Jennifer Lopez, and Kristen Stewart soaked up the spotlight.

Compared to a high-pressure entrance like this one, the Oscars are "a nice get-together," Zoe Saldana observed. Catwalker Maryna Linchuk found herself having to adapt, too. "It's really different, because they're really into celebrities," she noted. (Her date, Derek Lam, assured us that he'll be giving Linchuk plenty of love in his Fall ad campaign.)

Naturally, stars waltz into a party like this one with different ideas on how to dress for it. Eva Longoria Parker's rule of thumb? "When you can't breathe, that means it’s a good fit!" Alexa Chung, meanwhile, sprang up the stairs in a comfy-looking tuxedo from 3.1 Phillip Lim.

As usual for the Met ball, there were plenty of such felicitous pairings. According to Pucci's Peter Dundas, outfitting sample-size Sienna Miller (who walked in hand in hand with Jude Law) was a snap. Jason Wu and Camilla Belle "did it through e-mail," the designer giggled. "We've been on many, many dates," Emma Watson said of her escort, Burberry's Christopher Bailey, while Liv Tyler joked that Stella McCartney (who also dressed Kate Hudson for the gala) takes care of her girlfriends' looks first and "always leaves hers to the last second." Brooke Shields positively squealed with delight when Michael Kors stooped down to adjust her train, which wasn't quite as epic as the roadblock-creating one Zac Posen had attached to Doutzen Kroes.

Ralph Lauren arrived in beaten-up blue jeans, having assembled what was arguably the evening's most all-American table. It included two of his own offspring (David and Dylan), Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel, Taylor Swift, and Lauren Bush, who figured her dinner plans would involve "schmoozing about scoring some tickets to a concert" with the country-pop crossover sensation. And who did Tom Ford, in his pink jacket, plan to rub elbows with between cocktail hour and Lady Gaga's gala-capping performance? "Just some good friends," he said.

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BEST DRESSED OF 13/08/2010













BY JULIA NEEL

THE BlackBerry party in LA put Lea Michele back onto our Best Dressed list for the third week in a row - a sartorial hat trick, if you will, for the Glee starlet. She wore a silver and while Jenni Kayne creation when she joined Christina Ricci and Amber Valletta at the event. In New York, Eat, Pray, Love premiered at the Ziegfeld Theatre, where Julia Roberts was every inch the leading lady in Stella McCartney and Roger Vivier. Also in New York, Olivia Palermo was in Susan Woo for the screening of The Big C. She was joined there by Sarah Jessica Parker and Donna Karan - who both wore Donna Karan.

Elsewhere, Leighton Meester wore Reem Acra to film a scene for Gossip Girl in Manhattan and Maggie Gyllenhaal wore Lanvin to see Emma Thompson's star being unveiled on Hollywood's Walk of Fame.

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