Fashion N style

Monday, August 9, 2010

In discussion: Time travelling style

Throughout history there have been countless sartorial snapshots or eye pleasing periods of men's dress which we look back on now either wishing we could experience for ourselves or indeed wanting to emulate that particular sense of style in the present day. Here we talk to a selection of our favourite designers to hear which periods of style or which fashion moment they would gladly hope in to Doc's Delorean to experience for themselves...

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If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?

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Nick Thomas, Head Menswear designer at John Smedley.

"I remember someone telling me about the moment that the first ever dye colour was discovered, Mauve. What a moment that must have been, to see it appear on cloth, and how different from the normal dreary palettes of yore. It paved the way for brands like us for who colour is integral. We’ve got a lot to be thankful for, it made the world a much more colourful place I’m sure. Mauve is definitely underrated."

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Hannah Martin, jewellery designer.

"I love everything about the 30s. Any architecture, furniture and clothing wise because it isn't as flash as the 20s and everything is toned down."

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Matthew Miller, designer.

"Perfect Moment? The Mods and Rocker era of the Sixties, fast women stylish bikes and amazing suits. What more could a man ask for?"

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Harris Elliott, accessories designer.

"Have to be turn of last century where you would wear formal clothes even if you were cleaning the streets."

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Matthew Murphy, Owner/Buyer/Designer at b Store.

"The beat generation."

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As we are all somewhat obsessed with men's dress we will all have our own particular favourite. Perhaps you lived in your golden era or you might have fallen in love with it via the silver screen. We want to hear all about your enthused stories and obsessions.

London Street Style: Hanover Sq...

Friday, August 6, 2010

VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE SPRING 2010 PREVIEW

Plan de Afaceri

COUTURE SPRING 2010 VALENTINO 2

COUTURE SPRING 2010 VALENTINO

27 JANUARY PARIS

A Garden of Eden in cyberworld. That was the central conceit that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli worked up for their third Valentino couture show. The influence of Avatar—the blue-sprayed shoulders—and the urge to make something modern out of barely there chiffon seemed the twin driving forces behind the collection. There was little continuity here with either their first heavily structured show or the second one, done almost entirely in black lace. Yet the contradiction between wispy draping and fantasy-tribal styling (a Rodarte-led thread that a couple of designers have picked up this week) was a topical enough device to make the collection seem current. Although Chiuri and Piccioli are now clearly addressing a wildly different world from the one Valentino held entranced, there were pieces that showcased the house's skill base. A couple of wrapped, draped chiffon dresses (one done in brick red in memory of Valentino tradition) and a jacket with black patches jigsawed onto a base of near-invisible flesh-colored georgette were youthful in the way this label needs to be if it's going to attract new clients.

Forgotten Fit

Forgotten Future

Last month I encountered the designs of Forgotten Future twice in as many hours. Initially by the unveiling of the label over on oki-ni, quickly followed by an encounter with the creative mind behind the label, Richard Dawson at Stitch. This two fold introduction allowed me to fully acquaint myself with the label and by lunchtime I was a fan, a post soon followed. A few weeks later and a package arrived in my mail box containing a pair of high waisted corduroy trousers in burgundy. Dawson was so pleased with my post and the fact that I instantly understood the label that he sent me one of the highlights from his AW10 collection as a huge thank you. I have to confess that gifts always make me feel a little uneasy because they are wholly unnecessary. I only write about the brands that I truly love, there is no agenda. That said, on the odd occasions that I do receive a gift from one of those love brands, the item will be cherished and these cords are no exception...

A closer look at the front detailing.

Forgotten Future's sophomore collection was influenced by an eclectic mix of inspirations, from Eton schoolboys to No Wave to Constructivism. These seemingly disparate influences combine wonderfully to create a collection that expresses the kind of sartorial nonchalance which I aspire to demonstrate in my own attire during the cooler months. Along with a high degree of workmanship, silhouette and proportional experimentation are both key to Forgotten Future's aesthetic. These burgundy cords wonderfully encapsulate all that is exciting about the label. Now, these are the first pair of high waisted trousers I have worn for as long as I can remember. Despite admiring pairs from the likes of bstore and Tim Soar in recent seasons I have chose to sit this style out. I doubted whether or not my medium frame could really pull them off with any level of success. I could hide no longer with this beautiful pair hanging in my wardrobe. Below are the results of my first, of undoubtedly many high waisted experiment...

The Forgotten Future cord trousers worn with +J Collection chambray shirt from Uniqlo and Kudu boots by Lodger.

A close up...I love the pleated front detailing and the dominant use of zips.

A close up of the Kudu boots on one of their first outings for a few months.

Thanks to Forgotten Future I am no longer afraid of high waisted trousers. I am most pleased with this first experiment and am looking forward to experimenting with them over the coming months as we welcome in the new season. Roll on autumn...