Style Stalking... Buck's Elliot James Sainsbury (Part 1)

What better way to learn about a person's style than to style stalk them for a week? Elliott James Sainsbury is a chap who we first came across on the t'internet back when he was blogging but when we met him in person we just had to style stalk him... We could not think of anyone better to kickstart this new feature. Needless to say, after viewing the first few days of images (beautifully shot by Holly Falconer ) we became green with envy... Elliott, we want to steal your wardrobe! Please sit back and become a voyeur as we are let in to the first four days in his shoes. The rest of the week's outfits with be accompanied by his shop recommendations later this week.

Day one:
Blazer, tie and sneakers- Lanvin. Vintage silk scarf. Sweater- Dior Homme. Jeans- Cheap Monday. Shirt- Hurwundeki. Spectacles- Oliver Peoples. Briefcase- Battersea car boot sale. Trenchcoat on chair- Topman.

----

Day two:
Vintage coat, blazer and scarf- The East End Thrift Store. Jeans- Cheap Monday. Shoes- Church's. Top- Uniqlo. Spectacles- SUPER. Briefcase- Battersea car boot sale.

----

Day three:
Purple blazer and scarf- The East End Thrift Store. Shirt- Uniqlo. Vintage trousers- charity shop. Socks- Happy Socks. Shoes- Church's. Bow tie- H&M.

----

Day four:
White shirt- Miu Miu. Vintage trousers- charity shop. Cape- Carolyn Massey for Topman. Bag- Jil Sander. (Note from Elliot- ack, this pic is really over contemplative! I don't normally do this face at work!)

Sporting Rewind

As most of your eyes are transfixed on the goings on in New York, I will leave the runway commentary (for now - a full catch up will come before the weekend) to the likes of thesundaybest and thefashionisto because I must admit that I am finding it difficult concetrating on the happenings across the Atlantic because I am just to darn excited about next week. here in London. In this spirit, I'd like shout in true Craig David styleee 're-e-wind' and divert your gaze to Georgy Baratashvili, a recent graduate of Central Saint Martins (thanks to the fashion156 blog for bringing him to my attention). Baratashvilli has already including collaborated with Puma and the Jamaican Olympic team (makes me just think of Cool Runnings) and it is clear that his work marries sportswear with a dark romantic aesthetic.

His AW09 collection, inspired by British youth culture, takes the everyday street uniform of hoodies and tracksuits and overlays them with elements from Baratashvili’s dance background to create a tough but much sensual look than we might normally see at a town centre near you. For years, Baratashvili was a professional dancer in his native Russia, so it really is no wonder that movement inspired his collection of soft, draped trousers and tops.

The only trouble is... with intricately draped jersey, layered wool and washed leather in a soft nude and grey palette, I just know that if I did get my hands on any of this collection, I would have to keep it under lock and key away from Susie's thieving hands...

Style Salvage Speaks to... Jaiden rVa James

These are exciting times right now for menswear in London. To celebrate the fact that we are just over a week away from an afternoon dedicated to showcase some of our favourite designers we will be talking to a few of the reasons why we have every right to be excited. First up are Jaiden rVa James, a design duo (Rasharn de Vera Agyemang and Jaiden James) who aim to deliver cutting edge but always wearable designs whilst respecting and explore the male anatomy. Their SS09 collection (a selection if images provided below) saw them celebrate gingham with the colours of the English summer making us dream of an actual summer this year. On February 25th, Jaiden rVa James will take their place alongside Sibling (who will be providing a screening), Katie Eary and Martine Rose and we just cannot wait to see their installation... in the meantime here is our little chat with the guys.

Rasharn de Vera Agyemang and Jaiden James make up Jaiden rVa James

Style Salvage: How would you describe your work?
Jaiden rVa James: Experimental & Exploitative

SS: Tell us a little history about your beginnings and how the partnership evolved...
JrVaJ: We have known each other for a while now, around 4 years as we used to live in the same apartment complex, share mutual friends and had the same interests. Jaiden rVa James developed simply out of love for fashion and as a way of expressing ourselves.

SS: Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
JrVaJ: No we usually develop a story and that story becomes a theme and we kind of work within that theme

Pastels and gingham... a SS09 look showcased in Fashion156

SS: These are exciting times for menswear in London...How does it feel to be part of the first menswear afternoon at LFW?
JrVaJ: We have watched menswear rise in London, not that it has not always been here from Savile Row to John Richmond to Kim Jones etc. Man has really helped alot and we have a huge respect for Gordon, his team and Topman for supporting London's menswear and an even huger admiration for Lulu as I can't even imagine where British- furthermore fashion in general- would be without Fashion East.

SS: What can we expect to see from your aw 09/10 collection?
JrVaJ: Pyschosexuality, hats by the amazing Justin Smith, jackets by Schott

SS: Which fellow designers are you most excited about seeing in London?
JrVaJ: Luella, Louise Goldin, House of Holland, Nasir Mazhar, Justin Smith, Katie Eary, Sibling, James Long, Chris Shannon, JW Anderson, Topman Design, Basso & Brooke, The Whole menswear day.

Two more SS09 looks seen in Fashion156

SS: Is there a Jaiden rVa James man/muse?
JrVaJ: Charlie Porter is the embodiment, a man unafraid of fashion and who has a huge passion for it, his love for his job stretches beyond just his job and clothes but he genuinely cares about the landscape of fashion especially menswear.

SS: What is inspiring your own personal styles at the moment? Do you have any style icons (long or short term)?
JrVaJ: Our style is experimental in many ways and we rather dress the way we feel and treat dressing as an art form as it is always how we express ourselves but we rather dress the way we see fit rather then be influenced by another person.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
JrVaJ: Produce a catwalk show for MAN, do some collabs to deliver the label to a wider audience and hopefully work with a sports label on a more long term partnership.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
JrVaJ: Hedi Slimane's first and last show for Dior.

Image from their SS09 lookbook, shot by Bret Llod and styled by Raph Castelmezzano

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
JrVaJ: A skirt or kilt. I think men should have worn skirts in the first place i don't know why it became unfashionable as it makes more sense then trousers; a skirt is less restricting more fluid and allows us men more freedom.

SS: If you could dress anyone, who would it be and what would you put them in?
JrVaJ: I would say any man that appreciates the design is good enough for us, having someone buy into what your creating is beautiful enough in itself.

SS: Have you got any recommendation that you'd like to share with our readers? (shops, hairdressers, designers, websites, bars)
JrVaJ: Justin Smith Esquire for Hats. Tate Modern & Southbank - for culture. Joiners Arms- for a drink. Schott Perfecto Jackets. House of Harlot- Amazing with rubber. Bang Bang- For Vintage. Regulation- for leather they know how to work with leather amazing

SS:Finally, what's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer? (and what is the answer)
JrVaJ: Now that would be telling.

Hitting 25...feeling good, feeling spoiled.

Stylish presents for a spoiled, twenty five year old man.

I hope you all had a lovely Valentines Day. Despite the fact that my special one is currently across the Atlantic Ocean covering New York Fashion for Dazed... my day was still special because I hit the quarter of a century mark. Upon hitting this seemingly landmark age, a number of my friends became a little freaked out but after observing them consumed with a heady cocktail of drink mixed with feelings of nerves, excitement and desperation, it was a whole lot simpler for me. Friday evening saw me eat and drink far too much but I fell asleep hitting the big Two Five with a smile on my face and the feeling continued as I shopped, ate the most gorgeous (but sickly) chocolate cake from Maison Bertaux and vegged out in front of the TV with EJ and her aptly named cat, Valentine (we watched The Next Karate Kid). Of course, the best thing about any birthday is the present part (shallow, superficial, me...ha!)....

As Susie escaped to New York on Friday afternoon my birthday shenanigans began a day early and what a way to start proceedings! The present came in a bag decorated with Menswear Show Invites (my favourite being Moschino’s simple cardboard invitation adorned with an etching of dark shades and a protruding, furry moustache) and what was inside truly made me feel spoiled and special. You all know that I love hi tops a little too much but one of the reasons for my love has been the styling of recent Lanvin shows. Top of my footwear lust list has been this pair of Lanvin Hi tops...Susie knows me so well and this is the best present ever! I will be wearing them out for the first time today as I am being taken out to lunch by my sister and her fiance.

On to the day itself and EJ ensured that I had a great day on the present front. First up, a great vintage find and the perfect day bag that I've been searching for for some, the search is over thanks to her! Inside the bag (wrapped in Christmas Penguin paper) was the perfect posing day/night gown which would not look out of place on a relaxed Don Draper reading the morning paper. Whenever I am at home, I'll be donning this robe.

The stylish birthday presents continued with a trip to the shops to spend some of that birthday money which was burning a hole in my pocket. After thoroughly exploring the offerings on the High Street I succumbed to a fitted navy shirt from COS....the shopping will continue once a couple of cheques clear...

I will work my presents into my next batch of outfit shots will be posted later this week. So far being 25 is great!

Lunch break on Brick Lane

Because this subject was dashing to have his lunch we did not get to discuss his look. However, if asked, my first thoughts would be that it’s a New Romantic’s answer for a day-into-evening outfit...

Picture Postcard - Dressing in monochrome

Seeing double...The two covers of VMAN's Spring Issue

Dearest EJ

Thanks to the Fashionisto I just can't wait for next weeks trip to Borders where I will happily feed my magazine addiction but before I can, I came across the above images. The cover of the Spring issue of VMAN reminded me of your declaration in yesterday's window shopping outing that you wanted to wear a one colour outfit (with purple of course being your favourite choice from the spectrum). VMAN's cover story is dedicated to the second VMAN/FORD Male Model Search. This time the contest was too tight to call, so it was declared a tie. The result are two covers for VMAN’s spring 2009 issue. Dressed in coral, CJ Hancock wears the latest from Calvin Klein, while Jake Madden wears Givenchy. We should both give monochromatic dressing a try for Spring, I am game if you are (of course we'll choose better colours than the ones above)!

Much love

Steve

Style Salvage Speaks to... Makin Jan Ma

We first came across Makin Jan Ma designs over on Style Bubble where the Central St Martins graphics grad who saw Spike Jonze and Wong Kar Wai as his contemporaries had taken an odd route by evolving the characters of his future films and creating fashion for them. Film, photography, fashion, illustration, poetry are intertwined as Makin uses all of these mediums to express the ideas overflowing from his mind. With his SS09 Collection "You are my milky way" the Japanese London-based designer takes us on an intergalactic journey with wearable spaceship and outer space prints. We caught up with the creative chap and he offered the below insight into the workings of his mind...

Two characters from 'You are my milky way'

Style Salvage: Tell us a little history about your beginnings…
Makin Jan Ma: I wanted to make film and so I tried to start. I started writing stories and scripts 3 years ago. And then I started making props and clothes for my stories and characters as part of the process of my brainstorming. And once some Japanese buyers saw my clothes and they told me they liked it and agreed to try to sell for me. Since then I start making collections. I started from not knowing a thing about fashion collection nor any idea of making clothes. And for these 3 years I slowly feel that I am finishing my foundation course and going into a degree course of making clothes. I feel a long journey of learning just starting now again. Very exciting.

SS: Confusingly for some, your design work provides costumes for your characters, describe your work in your own words...
MJM: I write stories and scripts and I make clothes for my characters. Whenever I have a chance I push myself to make films of my stories. And creating stories and thinking about clothes becoming a very mixed up process in my head. Sometime the story come first, and sometime the clothes. I stop worrying what come first or second. I just keep working towards the film. For the moment I feel that I am actually practicing a big research project for my future film. By keep creating and collecting ideas, I feel confident to move on slightly everyday.

SS: When can we expect the finished film?
MJM: The film I am going to make which I will be very fan of myself... I think that will come maybe in 5 or 10 years time... I don't know yet. But I will keep making shorts and experiment films to enlarge my vision and experience. Film making for me is a life long process. All the directors that I respect they spend a life time to develop. And I am very glad that I have started my route. It is a serious thing for me. But when I start seeing more people wearing my clothes in their daily life I start to think the film is already starting in a different form. They are like being carried to life of reality in a different aspect. Running my film project so far gives me the freedom to observe, collect and create different ideas everyday. I enjoy the process and I am not looking at it to reach an end yet. I will keep working hard on it which is what I can promise for now.

SS: Talk us through your favourite character thus far?
MJM: I have a character named Guts. He is a sentimental guy who like to think about little things in life. There is always confusions and contractions in his mind. Love is an important thing in his life and he chase for the true feeling of time.

SS: Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
MJM: I don't have a set design process but I am collecting ideas from my surroundings every moment. I work very spontaneously. I would like to allow myself freedom in my process of creation.

SS: What films/books/tv-programs/moments and stories currently inspire your design?
MJM: Japanese Actress/Singer Chara singing MY WAY in the film called Swallowtail Butterfly, is a 1996 movie by Japanese film director Shunji Iwai.

SS: What were some of the elements that influenced the spring/summer collection?
MJM: Milky Way... The endless space of unknown which surround you when you first catch a sight of love.

SS: Do you see directors or designers as your main contemporaries?
MJM: Directors give me hopes and designers bring me drives.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
MJM: A meditation trip, a pretty long one

SS: What's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer?
MJM: Would you like to act too?

Desire to recreate Take Ivy

Scanned images from Take Ivy courtesy of ACL.

During the late sixties, a Japanese photographer traveled across the northeastern United States stopping at each of the Ivy League schools to document the style of the era. The resulting book, titled Take Ivy, is inspiring. This beautiful photo book is practically impossible to get hold of (it was out of print until a few years ago when a small run was re-released, only to immediately sell out) but thankfully scans exist online. I first came across the book via Thenonplace who managed to scoop a first edition of the book and then he duly put his copy of the 2006 reprint on ebay (it sold for £410 demonstrating the demand for this limited edition book). A Continuous Lean has dedicated a number of posts to this preppy style bible and it is thanks to Michael Williams that I've been able to see inside this world.

Scanned images from Take Ivy courtesy of ACL.

Although these scans are of a time and a place I will never know and are of a sartorial style that is not my preferred aesthetic, there is no denying that they are truly wonderful. shots These images have instilled a desire to embark on my own exploration of a specific style, all I have to do is decide who to focus my lens on for my photographic style documentary. I sense a summer road trip, who wants to ride shotgun?

P.S. It is my birthday on Saturday...if anyone has a spare copy of Take Ivy and would like to send me something special please do...

Giveaway! Burberry The Beat

Burberry are giving one lucky Style Salvage reader a bottle of their new scent, Burberry The Beat.

To stand a chance of winning, please tell us what the models are looking at in the below image (keep it relatively clean, folks)... The prize will be awarded to the entry which makes us laugh the hardest... come on readers we expect belly bursting laughter...

Please send your your entries to stylesalvage@gmail.com. The deadline for entries is Sunday, February 15th. We will post the best entries and of course name the winner the following day.

You can learn more about Burberry The Beat on their Facebook, Myspace, and Bebo pages.

Vintage Brick Lane

The vintage leopard print jacket and the white Doc Martens.