Wardrobe Observations: 1 - Green with envy

Last week I mentioned the looming threat of EJ's visit to London where she has promised to ransack my wardrobe and scrutinise every piece...that day is drawing ever nearer. Before organising (and at times hiding items) the sorry excuse that is my wardrobe I have spent the morning scanning the contents and as well as invoking some form of fear deep within me...I have realised something...I need more green. We have frequently discussed the importance of colour in previous posts on the blog and its importance should not be underestimated. After my quick content survey it is clear that the predominant colours are grey, navy and blue...very few items deviate from this palette which is a shame. I only have two green items, one branded t shirt and one cashmere jumper...I need more. I've always known that green is certainly a colour which suits my skin and hair tones but I have been recently inspired by glimpses of green in two recent images posted by the Sartorialist and snippets of moss like shades on the the runway.

In addition to the wonderful theatre of the show, 'The McQueensberry Rules' contained a bounty of desirable stand-alone pieces. The show had a wealth of depth, every time I look at this collection I see another highlight but the above look is my current favourite and I love the earthy tones. For AW 09 Lanvin continued the blend of traditional luxe fabrics and technological twist but it was the mix of deep red and green accessories against the well cut relaxed suits which got me excited.

Away from the runway, the Sartorialist's smoking man from the Left Bank has combined the best example of a pea coat that I've seen all year with a lighter shade of green fingerless gloves. As for the other Sartorialist chap (captured outside the Lanvin show), The Sunday Best simply described him as perfectly executed and I could not agree more. This is one classy shade of green mixed perfectly with blue and purple, which ultimately creates a very dapper look....when I grow up I want to be this man.

This is the first of undoubtedly many wardrobe observations. I am a mere two days aways from EJ's visit so more posts will surely follow. When was the last time that you surveyed your wardrobe?

Vibskov's Autumn/Winter Encore with friends

I spent the afternoon catching up on a number of shows from Stockholm (Bertoni and Whyred are particularly worth mentioning) and Copenhagen and it is great to see a number of exciting designers showing in these (relatively) new fashion capitals. For me, men's fashion is always in need of new blood and and a fresh point of view (and no more than now given the doom and gloom of recent weeks) and these shows have helped me see that it is out there, Copenhagen in particular. Every February and August, Copenhagen is host to Northern Europe's largest fashion event. Susie has recently returned from covering the goings on at Copenhagen and her coverage combined with her enthused ramblings at home have forced me to write a few words on Vibskov and chums.

According to Susie's excited ramblings Henrik Vibskov is followed and celebrated like a Rock God in his native country and it is easy to see why, as well blowing his adoring fans all away with his colourful prints he creates quite the spectacle and knows what constitutes a great show. Of course we saw this collection in Paris but I loved hearing about his encore show last week. I wish more designers knew how to put on a great show.

What makes a great show?

• Find a great venue - Vibskov's venue was The Grey Hall in the semi self-governing state of Christiania with approximately 850 residents and plenty of pot consumption.
• Invite more than just the usual fashion crowd to create a different type of fashion experience.
• Allow plenty of beer. A Bring your own policy makes for an interesting party feel.
• A well chosen sound track.
  
• An interesting collection helps but if all the boxes are ticked then it is not necessarily a necessity.
  

Copenhagen was far from just a one man show though, although heavy on the monochrome Jean//phillip's collection was anything but dull. Highlights included slim silhouettes in fabrics ranging from provocative leather, PVC and sheer black chiffon to the more subdued wool in black and grey, jersey and black and white woolen tartan. Soulland, one of the few purely menswear designers showing, saw knitted long johns, quilted jackets, high-necked knits and trousers made out of high endurance rubber which created a slightly unnerving collection.

If you've not had time to look over show images from the Scandinavian fashion weeks, I suggest that you make yourself a cup of tea and pore over designers new and old (Please note: Style Salvage is not suggesting that you pour hot tea over the designers, please just drink it and marvel at the shows whilst sipping tea).

Fashion156 playing with pastels

Painting with pastels...Image from Fashion156 editorial. Flower Cap, Shirt and Jacket by Satyenkumar. Pink Bow Tie by Made with Hands painted by stylist.

After waking up to yet another grey and damp Monday morning in London, I have sought comfort yet again in a cup of tea (strong, milk with one sugar) and the latest editorial over on Fashion156. In my opinion there is nothing online half as good as the editorials showcased on this site and I was not disappointed by the Pastels issue, which once again showcases emerging design talent with established names.

I for one am fed up with all this grey and am chomping at the bit for some warm sunshine! The latest shots transport me back to the seaside and pressing my chubby cheeked face against the windows of Italian owned ice cream parlours. When most people think of pastels they are reminded of afternoons spent at nursery school creating a masterpiece to grace the outside of their fridge whilst getting more pastel chalk on themselves as opposed to the paper in front of them. For me, all of these memories have been diluted with thoughts of food, either the windows of Parisian patisseries with a mouth watering selection of macaroons or the equally salivating inducing sight of tubs of interestingly flavoured ice cream.

My favourite look...Pink Check Jacket and Trousers all by Jaiden RvA James

Pastels offer the perfect Spring colour palette but more often than not they are worn in a tired and uninteresting way. Here, Guy Hipwell has played with pastel shades and used plaids, polka dots, florals and textured accessories to breathe fresh life into this Spring palette. My favourite look of all is the one directly above which features a whole look by Jaiden rVa James. For their Spring Summer 09 collection they traded in lace and the subdued colours of previous seasons for gingham and spring pastels and have certainly captured my imagination in the process. The shirts and jackets are decked out in gingham and adorned with oversized pockets in soft pastel shades. These pieces are complimented by below the knee shorts with a hint of gingham, and solid, pleated high-waisted trousers. This is adventurous Spring Pastel dressing.

Pastel Polka Dot Gang...Spotty Cardigan by Ground Zero, t-shirt by Carola Euler, jeans by American Apparel

If you were in any doubt before, this editorial confirms that pastels offer are a wonderfully Spring friendly colour palette and can be embraced wholeheartedly with pastel blue tailoring or delicately integrated into everyday style in the form of accessories and footwear (the Kurt Geiger and Grenson collaboration springs to mind).

Pale Pink Cardigan by Martin Margiela, check shirt by Marc by Marc Jacobs, pink bow tie by Made with Hands painted by stylist.

As I said over on the featured MAN article on Fashion156...If you are half as fed up with wearing dark ensembles as I am, it is time to embrace the coming season and the patisserie-like selection of pastel shades on offer...right after devouring a macaroon or two...unfortunately, it is a little too cold right now to take on a double scoop of pistachio ice cream...

Beautiful Girls, Beautiful Dresses

Tags: Beautiful Dress, Model Dress, Cotton Dress, Ladies Wear, Beautiful Girls, Ladies Clothing

Style Salvage Speaks to... Martyn Bal

Out of the seemingly countless Spring Summer 09 lookbooks we have seen over the course of the last few months Martyn Bal's is one of the few that we remember vividly. We have to admit that Bal was not on our radar until we saw his vision for this coming Spring but we eagerly researched him and his impressive CV says it all... we can't wait to see his next collection (images for this should be up shortly). Martyn Bal has learnt his trade at some of our favourite menswear designers and we love what he is doing on his own label so we were thrilled when he agreed to speak to us.

Style Salvage: Describe your work in a few words.
Martyn Bal: We aim to challenge fashion conventions with an architectural vision of shape, fit and proportion, whilst effortlessly juxtaposing strength and fragility, forcefulness and elegance, with hedonism and romanticism.

SS: You have certainly learnt your trade at some prestigious places from being an apprentice at Dirk Bikkenbergs, completing an MA in Menswear at the RCA, assisting Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme, designing collections for Versace, and directing the men's studio for Burberry's Prorsum. Which experience would have shaped your design the most?
MB: Every single experience has been important to me. Different people and places have had different influences on my work. At Bikkembergs I learned all about tailoring and constructing a perfect jacket or coat, whereas at Dior Homme I received more exposure to creating an image. Having had a mentor like Hedi Slimane has been extremely valuable to me in terms of understanding vision, and how to apply a vision into the finest and often overlooked detail. Burberry was a good corporate school, where I learned about the more institutional sides of this industry.

SS: Having seen so much at such a young age, what advice would you give a young designer wanting to forge a career in menswear?
MB: Ambitious people often want too much at once. I believe it is essential to be patient and learn step-by-step.

SS: Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
MB: I don’t have a set design process; every season may be approached differently. Sometimes I find an image and work around this to build up a story, other times I simply start to draw and find reference along the way. I never restrict my creativity to just one theme. Often different media inspire me. Being a modernist at heart, I use graphic design, contemporary art and music culture as a springboard for inspiration.

SS: What (if any) films/books/TV-programs/moments and stories currently inspire your design?
MB: I love watching the classic Michael Caine movies, or a young Terence Stamp in Pier Paolo Pasolini’s TEOREMA. However, it’s attitude, contradiction and behaviour that inspire me most, rather then having one particular muse.

SS: Your spring/summer 09 collection provided one of the strongest look books that we've seen all season, what were the main inspirations behind it?
MB: With the SS09 collection I wanted to emphasize fit and proportion and work with soft and light materials. It is a play on dualities, confidence and romanticism; Cropped pants, long t-shirts and more volume at the top. I also worked around the idea of conscious dressing to defy authority, as in adolescent rebellion.

SS: What can we expect to see in your next collection?
MB: The AW0910 collection is about rejecting traditional forms and anticipating the future, so there is strong play on fit and proportion throughout the collection. With regards to colour and print, I have tried to arrange it in such way that from a distance it agrees completely with vitality in all its forms. We have asserted a lot of attention to detail and finishing. Our collection breaths luxury and craftsmanship, made to the industry’s highest standards. We have also been working around the idea to propose ‘The new suit.’

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
MB: The way things are looking at the moment, 2009 is going to be a challenging year for the industry. It would not surprise me if some fashion houses were to fail. We believe that in times of turmoil it is leadership and innovation that create opportunities. Our aim is to do just that for 2009 and beyond.

The Stylers

A stylish trio on a cold day in Brick Lane.

Hope on the High Street

Last night I dreamt that I was the proud owner of a thriving menswear boutique in an unknown district of an unknown city. The rails were stocked with a wonderful mixture of good quality wardrobe staples, well selected vintage pieces and there were areas for my favourite designers and recent graduates to showcase their talent and of course to wow the viewing public in to consumer submission. The shop itself was busy and people were relaxed, comfortable and, most importantly, leaving with a smile and a full complimentary shopping tote.

The reason for my dream, aside from my obsession to one day play shop, was the fact that I couldn't get to sleep last night, so to combat my restlessness I decided to re-listen to the Monocle Weekly. As I was drifting off the distant voices I could hear belonged to Tyler Brûlé and Lord Mandelson (British Secretary of State for Business, Enterprise & Regulatory Reform). As they discussed their views on how budding entrepreneurs should ride the waves of the recession and make a difference (with the help of a few banks who actually lend money responsibly), it triggered off my entrepreneurial spirit in making a mark on the retail landscape. One day my friends, one day...

The Monocle discussion highlighted that our High Streets have become so overrun with huge chain outlets that they have lost their community spirit. On the most part, if you have seen one high street you have seen them all. The closest High Street to where I grew up is now a very depressing sight (not that it was much better when I was a nipper) where most of the large chains have now left the town centre and retreated to out of town shopping areas leaving a mourning ghost town- only Primark and KFC survive. Sad times indeed but there is hope. Lambs Conduit Street (as profiled by Monocle last year) symbolises what can be achieved and, when I own a shop, it will certainly be part of this retail renaissance.

Furthermore, despite the obvious decline of our much lived high streets there are glimmers of hope offered, surprisingly, by a number of megabrands. The blogosphere has been inundated with collaboration news and impressive look books from the likes of Uniqlo, Topman, COS and even H&M.

From the previews that I've seen, the best of the lot is Uniqlo's guest-helmed designer invitation lines. As we have come to expect (and rely) from a collaboration with the Japanese megabrand, basics are the rule, but each designer's spirit still prevails. The Opening Ceremony (designs hitting the stores in March) feature cropped lengths and plaids in washed-out pastels and I'd gladly buy the lot...

Released twice a year in February and September, Lens was set up in 2006 as an area dedicated to a handful of changing designers in the flagship store on Oxford Circus. A few seasons on and the Lens area is renowned for pushing the boundaries when it comes to high street fashion and it really is a delight to see designs by the likes of Carolyn Massey, James Long, Mjolk, Kasper Harup-Hansen and Dexter Wong hanging on the rails of a High Street retailer...my only complaints would be that they don't stock enough small and mediums and that it would be nice to see the Lens area in more stores across the country.

Susie hearts COS for reasons detailed in her post last month but it should be added that I have hearted (??) this certain store for longer than she has. The simple, well made clothes in soft colour palettes can be worked in to any closet. The store consistently provides a clean and attractive aesthetic and for me the store really comes into its own when the sun comes out and the looks I have seen for the coming Summer are just how I envision myself dressing.

So despite the fact that many of our cloned high streets are on the decline (if you still don't know what I mean then I suggest a quick walk down Oxford Street or my home town of Margate) there is hope provided by a number of major retailers stocking menswear. The entrepreneurial spirit demonstrated by these High Street megabrands have inspired me to look at the blue print of my own retail haven- there is certainly room for all of us.

Style Salvage Speaks to... Carolyn Massey

Carolyn Massey is one of our favourite menswear designers and we expect big things from her in 2009. She has established herself as one of the key names in British menswear, producing both her own soft, relaxed luxury clothes and a number of salivation inducing pieces for her Topman Lens line - thanks to her designs, this leading fashion retailer recently brought the cape to the High Street!

We've not got long to wait until she takes her place in London Fashion Week's first ever dedicated menswear line up with her first solo show (February 25th can't come soon enough) so we were so pleased when she agreed to answer our questions despite that fact that she must be extremely busy right now. As well as looking back on an extremely successful 2008, the interview looks forward to her upcoming solo show and the designer reveals her love of Stephen Fry and his Fair Isle jumpers...

Style Salvage: After completing your MA at the RCA in 2005, what made you take the somewhat daunting leap to start your own label?
Caroyln Massey: I was frustrated and bored with what i was doing at the time, and I had developed some good personal orders - it felt like the right thing to do.

SS: We don't have too long to wait now until your first solo show at London Fashion Week (you are the first menswear designer to get this sponosorship) and we can't wait! Combined with the seasonal diffusion lines, Topman have certainly given you a platform to show off your designs, which has grown and grown. How did you first start working with Topman and how has the relationship grown?
CM: I was approached by Matthew Murphy of b Store who coordinates the area in my 1st season at Rendezvous showroom in Paris. The collections have grown and next season we are going up to 4 collections a year which is really exciting. For me it means that I can also design in other areas- accessories for example. The show is a pretty amazing the opportunity that I have been given, but I've worked hard for it.

Massey's creations for Topman Lens, including that cape and pieces from the SS09 line.

SS: The recent seasonal diffusion line with Topman was based on 'What it is to be a gentlemen' and it was so popular that we weren't quite quick enough in getting anything! Were you surprised by the success of the line?
CM: Yes and no- it feels like I've been doing my own thing for a while and now people are coming round to it. Amongst other things, I'm obsessed with the sense of ceremony that can be attached to dress and something about that feels really important right now.

SS: Your headmasterly cape left us salivating over our keyboards and was arguably the highlight. What was the inspiration behind it?
CM: My old flatmate had this amazing Dutch nurses cape! I will often look to uniform or old garments for ideas and also to look at construction... During Paris when I go over for sales I will go off to the flea markets and second hand shops. I take a huge empty suitcase and come back with it full.

SS: What is your vision of the gentlemen today?
CM: Erm... Pass!

SS: Who are your style icons?
CM: Currently Stephen Fry- love him and his Fair Isle jumpers.

SS: What is currently inspiring your design?
CM: No one I can name- there's a sense of mystery that has to surround this for me- In my head my muse is everyone and no one, a blurred grainy black and white photograph.


SS: Congratulations on being named the first ever fashion winner of the Reflect Forward Award 2009, how important is research to your design process? Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
CM: Research is integral to any design process. Just lock me away in an archive! I have a design/mood wall in the studio that changes every season. There is a process of gathering ideas and fabric and trims and sticking them to the wall and then figuring out how it all sits together.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
CM: Why, world domination, of course...

SS: Finally, what's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer? (and what is the answer)
CM: If I told you I'd have to kill you.

London and the resurrection of E. Tautz

I have a stinking cold today so feel pretty sorry for myself but there is reason to be cheerful. Thankfully, it is now only a matter of a few weeks until we get to experience the first (half) day of London Fashion Week wholly dedicated to menswear. The welcomed initiative from the BFC has grown out of the success of MAN and will increase the quota of men’s attire at Fashion Week. The all-male showcase will take place across the afternoon of 25 February in the grounds of the Natural History Museum and I can't wait to cover it!

“It’s exciting to be expanding the MAN project and getting wider recognition for the brilliant menswear coming out of London. Other big names joining MAN on the bill include Tim Soar, Carolyn Massey and E. Tautz .” Fashion East’s Lulu Kennedy (who we interviewed last year).

The list of designers create further reasons to be optimistic about the state of menswear in this fair city but as I am excited by all the featured designers, I am intrigued most by E. Tautz...because before last week's mention on A Continous Lean I was not aware of this distinguished sporting and military tailors.

Upon further investigation, the history of the brand is plain for all to see. For example, in 1895 Winston Churchill, aged just 21, became a customer at E. Tautz and his first order consisted of a pair of twill Tautz overalls but his as he grew older his wardrobe grew larger as E. Tautz decked him out in luuxurious pieces including white cashmere racing breeches and chocolate satin racing jackets with pink sleeves. However, it is thanks to the good people at Norton & Sons that we have the imminent relaunch of the storied house as a ready-to-wear collection.

It will be exciting to see so much emerging talent on show on the 25th but it is refreshing to see the seeming resurrection of such a historic brand which advocates skilled local manufacturing.

I will leave you with the following insight in to the etiquette of the house...

'We champion the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. We adhere to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VIII said it best. 'Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion.'

The gentlemen and the joker

This gentleman was so elegant, but to capture this photo was really difficult because as you will see from the photo below, a crazy attention-seeking joker would jump into the frame every time we tried to take the photo. The subject was becoming very irritated, which only energised the joker.