Monday, January 19, 2009
Miuccia's Studs
Studded Shoe Close Up - courtesy of DazedDigital's backstage coverage.I will be speaking to The Sunday Best at the end of the week to run through the goings on at Pitti, Capsule and Milan so I will not divulge too much just yet (although if you are interested my initial thoughts can be read over on the Fashion156 daily blog. After Miuccia deciding to surprise us all by showing a day early, I just couldn't resist posting about the studded shirts and shoes.
As great as the catwalking images are, backstage photos bring the collections to life. The strong, tailored black looks imposed themselves and took control of the runway but flashes of distinction came in the form of studs and leather and this is what impressed me most. Last season Balenciaga provided the most talked about brogues but Prada's studded offering will be difficult to top this season. Inspired by Rumi of FashionToast I might just have to mess around with a stud gun...although I'm not sure I have the patience or the skill and there is more chance of me having to visit the hospital than walking in modified shoes.I will now sit on my hands and refrain from posting too much more on the shows. My conversation with Thom is bound to be full of head nodding, finger waving, laughter, tears and so much more.
Saturday, January 17, 2009
The pink Headphones - Spitalfields
In the Market for Spring
Susie posted about our afternoon trip to Dover Street Market where we watched the biannual transformation of the store, out with the old and in with S/S 09., but I just two add my two pennies worth. If I wasn't longing for someone to hit the fast forward button on this grey, dull winter enough already, this visit to Dover Street Market was the straw which broke this camel's back. I no longer long for Spring, I demand it!

As always the third floor is my favourite, as Alber Elbaz knows how to put on a good show and his space, in particular his menswear space is encroaching and indeed taking over other areas. The Lanvin show held joint first placed (in my mind) with Burberry with creating the menswear that I'd love to wear and seeing the collection in person only confirmed my choice. The mix of fabrics, textures and subtle tones helped create an almost perfect Spring collection. I just wanted to run off with the chap mannequin who was watching over the web chat scenario because it was styled so well....
As amazing as the third floor was, it was great to see these blinding accessories by Raf Simons up close and personal...I could actually see my face in the reflective surface. EJ posted a link to them over on our twitter last week and the most common reaction was simply 'Wow!' I have to say, that when I saw them in the store, my subconscious mutterings echoed that reaction. They certainly are statement accessories and if they are blinding in the middle of a grey January, I can only think that once worn in July as the sun crashes (hopefully) down us they will create an Antony Gormley 'White Light' world...Just imagine what would happen if a cyclist wore the hi tops at the height of Summer, it would certainly end in bloody tears...I have said it before but if you are ever in London, my advice to you is avoid the usual, over crowded department stores and take a walk through Dover Street Market and you can thank me later.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Picture postcard: ready for action
Found here Howdy Steve!
From personal uniforms to real uniforms... I thought you'd appreciate these chaps. You know how much I love wide legged trousers, and these are no exception. I know that you shocked a few of our readers by admitting that you weren't a fan of leather coats, but surely these lovely brown jackets must meet your approval?
Oh, and that reminds me... I really must shine my shoes.
EJ
Thanks for posting this. It is beautiful.
I just love this image. It awakes the child in me who dreams of one day being a fighter pilot and looking just like this. On the style stakes this is perfect. Yes, I'm not a huge fan of leather jackets but the brown leather works so well combined with the wide legged trousers and shiney boots. I'm not sure that I'm quite macho enough to pull this look off though.
On the uniform front, have you seen this image from Pitti Uomo...
Thom Browne's presentation declared that there is 'Beauty is Uniformity.' Something uniform was promised and duly delivered by the militarily precise arrival of forty models identically dressed in signature Thom Browne looks. The 41st model then pressed the desktop bell a number of times and the models carried out the required action. It sounds perfect. We have to return to the uniform concept at a later post because there is just so much to say.
From personal uniforms to real uniforms... I thought you'd appreciate these chaps. You know how much I love wide legged trousers, and these are no exception. I know that you shocked a few of our readers by admitting that you weren't a fan of leather coats, but surely these lovely brown jackets must meet your approval?
Oh, and that reminds me... I really must shine my shoes.
EJ
Thanks for posting this. It is beautiful.
I just love this image. It awakes the child in me who dreams of one day being a fighter pilot and looking just like this. On the style stakes this is perfect. Yes, I'm not a huge fan of leather jackets but the brown leather works so well combined with the wide legged trousers and shiney boots. I'm not sure that I'm quite macho enough to pull this look off though.
On the uniform front, have you seen this image from Pitti Uomo...
Thom Browne's presentation declared that there is 'Beauty is Uniformity.' Something uniform was promised and duly delivered by the militarily precise arrival of forty models identically dressed in signature Thom Browne looks. The 41st model then pressed the desktop bell a number of times and the models carried out the required action. It sounds perfect. We have to return to the uniform concept at a later post because there is just so much to say.Keeping it in the family
I picked up a copy of the latest issue of i-D over the weekend and I must say, the Manhood issue is far better than any issue that I've read for as long as I can remember, for a start it doesn't feel and read like a love letter to the 90s. Within the issue I came across Casely-Hayford who are the first brand in high fashion to have a father and son working together at the creative helm. Joe has long demonstrated his ability to draw upon and connect his formal training in tailoring and fashion . Throughout his career he has pushed and examined menswear with his intriguing and influential innovation. From the deconstructed tailoring of the 80s (three dimensional lapels and exposed seams) to oversized knitwear and the fusion between sportswear and formal clothing in the 90s. Now this well seasoned hand has joined forces with his son, Charlie, who has to be one of London's most stylish chaps (I remember this Sartorialist shot in particular) who has recently become the face of Dr Martens alongside Coco Summer..
Here is an excerpt from the i-D interview...
Here is an excerpt from the i-D interview...
i-D: What prompted this new father-son venture?
JCH: I still feel as excited as when when I first walked through the doors of St. Martins. I don't feel like I've created my greatest work yet. It seemed natural to take this step with Charlie who has been a confidant and collaborator for some time. I have a great deal of respect for Charlie's discipline and focus. His input isn't always that of the young avant garde experimentalist. He is often conservative and pensive and approaches things from a classical standpoint. So it isn't predetermined that I stand for tradition and he the innovation. We believe that no other brand can capture the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy, and celebrate the beauty of high art and street culture simultaneously. We aim to offer a new and considered vision of English style in the 21st Century.
The duality of the brand reflects Joe's design history which has seen him creating stage clothes for bands like Clash to dressing the highest members of the British establishment whilst at Gieves & Hawkes.



Within their first show they combine the urbane qualities of Edward VIII, the first modern day English sartorialist, with the contemporary sportswear of London's street culture. The sense of duality is continued with a simultaneous emphasis on lightness and substance. Technical fabrics are fused with formal wear, sporting items formalised through the use of fine silk dog tooth jersey fabric, whilst contemporary twists underplay suits.
One of the main concepts behind the house is celebrating "Made in Japan, designed in London", with the British spirit clearing running through the clothes. The majority of the products are made in Japan (we often say that the Japanese do most things better) with a smaller part of the collection made by craftsmen in the UK and Italy. Shoes are bench made in Northampton, hand made silk ties are woken in Italy; printed silk scarves come from Italy and hand knitted pieces from Scotland. The focus is on creativity, attention to detail and craftsmanship, I wish every brand focused on the same ideals.
I am fascinated by the father and son element to this brand and can't help but think that I wish that my father was a leading designer. This is certainly a brand to keep an eye on. The label is currently only being stocked in Dover St Market in London and a few places in Japan.
JCH: I still feel as excited as when when I first walked through the doors of St. Martins. I don't feel like I've created my greatest work yet. It seemed natural to take this step with Charlie who has been a confidant and collaborator for some time. I have a great deal of respect for Charlie's discipline and focus. His input isn't always that of the young avant garde experimentalist. He is often conservative and pensive and approaches things from a classical standpoint. So it isn't predetermined that I stand for tradition and he the innovation. We believe that no other brand can capture the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy, and celebrate the beauty of high art and street culture simultaneously. We aim to offer a new and considered vision of English style in the 21st Century.
The duality of the brand reflects Joe's design history which has seen him creating stage clothes for bands like Clash to dressing the highest members of the British establishment whilst at Gieves & Hawkes.



Within their first show they combine the urbane qualities of Edward VIII, the first modern day English sartorialist, with the contemporary sportswear of London's street culture. The sense of duality is continued with a simultaneous emphasis on lightness and substance. Technical fabrics are fused with formal wear, sporting items formalised through the use of fine silk dog tooth jersey fabric, whilst contemporary twists underplay suits.
One of the main concepts behind the house is celebrating "Made in Japan, designed in London", with the British spirit clearing running through the clothes. The majority of the products are made in Japan (we often say that the Japanese do most things better) with a smaller part of the collection made by craftsmen in the UK and Italy. Shoes are bench made in Northampton, hand made silk ties are woken in Italy; printed silk scarves come from Italy and hand knitted pieces from Scotland. The focus is on creativity, attention to detail and craftsmanship, I wish every brand focused on the same ideals.
I am fascinated by the father and son element to this brand and can't help but think that I wish that my father was a leading designer. This is certainly a brand to keep an eye on. The label is currently only being stocked in Dover St Market in London and a few places in Japan.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Accessories for the Spring I long for
Just as their Autumn/winter accessories left a lasting impression on me...oh I still dream of having my very own feather tie...Lanvin’s Spring/Summer 2009 accessories collection (as shown on Selectism) comes along and all I want to do is press fast forward and skip the day after day of grey and embrace a new, brighter, warmer season. Lucas Ossendrijver's vision of Spring accessories includes a denim shopping bag (refer to our denim post), a sky blue tote which will hopefully soon be mirroring the sky and a collection of textured ties with intricate detailing. Of course, there are new variations of the accessories we have come to expect from the brand which in my mind and many of yours leads the pack, with new hi tops, belts, hats, belts and sandals to marvel at.One pair of hi tops in particular have caught my eye. The theme of texture created by intricate detailing is continued from the ties and into the pair on the very left, which come in a mouth watering light purple. All in all this is a smart and varied collection and there really should be something for everyone. Of course the price takes them out of my eager reach but that has not stopped me from being inspired to shop around and even think about a little modification project.

I've never been attracted to straw hats before but the Lanvin SS09 show changed all that. I loved how the distressed and beaten up hats were given a new lease of life dressed up in silk ribbons and flowers. Surely this has to be one of the easiest little modification projects around...the search for a battered straw hat will begin shortly. There might be a small chance of looking a little silly in such a hat but I need to give it a go and I want to be more adventurous this Spring. Even if it is a disaster, I will certainly have fun making it and any embellishment detailing can be re-cycled in to a lapel detail. I can't lose and neither can you if you decide to give this a go.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
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